April 13, 1998

Yikes! Please be careful when mixing Comet and Bleach. I believe the combination is CHLORINE GAS! Having survived this, you might want to go over everything with a scrub of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) available at any paint or hardware store. This should neutralize any residue.

Having done a ton of painting in many environments let me recommend to you HAMMERITE PAINT. It is easy to put on (no primer needed, though I'd scuff coat the fiberglass with 320 grit first, and prime with ANY prime I had available.) Hammerite is impregnated with millions of microscopic glass beads, and is incredibly tough, and resistant to oil, gas, heat, etc. Hammerite was develop in the UK to paint the North Sea oil rigs, and has held up better than expected. Cost? About $7 per spray can BUT WORTH IT! Check your local ACE hardware stores for it, or search the net. Once you start using Hammerite you never go back to cheaper stuff.

1675 Mar 15, 2002

When I am finished with my work in the engine room, I plan to fill in all of the previous screw holes with epoxy/putty and painting the bulkhead white. Does anyone have recommends on paint or preparation to give a glossy finish?

Last year when I was painting my battery boxes, I tried a little Brightside on the port side of the fwd bulkhead which absorbed it like a sponge. Should I just paint a number of coats of that, or try some other type?

James, Niko (91)

1677 Mar 15, 2002

As I mentioned in connection with my windlass, I find that the Rustoleum series works well on metals, with the glossy white very glossy and Home Depot prices rather than marine stores. But I did not try it on wood.

Bert dF, Pianissimo 80K

1678 Mar 16, 2002


I have just finished painting the wood and fiberglass areas inside and outside the settees and v-berth with gloss white exterior akloyd enamel (oil base) Gliden trim paint. It covers and adheres to the wood well with two coats and the roving with one. Two quarts did the entire cabin, waiting for consistently warmer weather to do the engine room and cockpit lockers.

Dale White

1685 Mar 18, 2002


My experience has been that proper surface prep with Interlux primer has reduced the absorption of the Brightside. On Windfall the removable cockpit locker panels had a really skimpy coat of cheap enamel. But with some 80-100 grit paper, a palm sander and a base primer coat; the Brightside almost looks like epoxy. Worked for me!

Good Luck

Don Edgar, Windfall 064, Cortez, FL


1686 Mar 18, 2002


Thanks for the tip. I believe that it will work. I have not worked much with wood. Are electric sanders OK for boat wood, or should I use a palm sander?

James Self, Niko (91)

1688 Mar 19, 2002


Regarding sanders, donít really think it makes a difference. However, if you are sanding a soft wood without a finish, go slow and use a fine enough paper so you donít cut through it to fast.