1716 Mar 26, 2002

I am going to be adding a below waterline thru-hull. Does 5200 require being out of the water for the duration of the curing process?


Mar 26, 2002

I would say for at least 3 days, best if 7.A friend put his Columbia back in the water 24hrs after adding thru-hullsfor his depth and speed.After about 30min. the water pressure pushed the 5200 back inside the hulland leaked. Working in my garage at about 60^ F. I used 5200 and screws to build a box out of marine ply. The 5200 was still workable after two days, started to skin at 3. I don’t know how much the new 5200 fastcure speeds this process.

Dale, PickPocket K14

1718 Mar 26, 2002


My own preference would be to ensure the 5200 is cured, solidified, before placing my vessel in the water. This could take 2 weeks here in the southern climate. 5200 prior to that would be much to fluid to put into the water environment.

Don Bundy

1719 Mar 27, 2002

Is 5200 what you want on a through-hull?

5200 is almost impossible to remove from fiberglass and can be very hard to remove from the threads on anything metal. If/when you want to remove that through-hull, 5200 may cause damage to the fiberglass. 5200 is great for the hull to deck joint (unless you want to take the deck off in the future) but a less adhesive polyurethane such as 4200 or Sikaflex will work just as well, and be easier to remove when that time comes. The sealant is not what holds the through-hull in place, the nut does that job.

Dick Weaver SWII75K

1720 Mar 27, 2002

I am not sure of the curing time for the 5200. But I have been told that using Life-caulk is a good way to go since Life-caulk says "Able to apply underwater and spraying with water decreases curing time". The only problem would be you should not use Life-caulk on plastic thru-hulls. But then you shouldn’t use plastic under the water line anyway. Hope this helps you out.