1494 Feb 6, 2002
I know there has been some information on going through the process of rebedding the rub rail. However, I had a question about how much 5200 does it take to do this job. I read an old email that as you put the rail back on you use 5200 in each screw hole till it comes out the next. It says you use about 40 tubes of 5200 I am wondering if this seems to be the case with all who have did this. When you figure out the price of about $10.75 a tube at 40 tubes you have spent about $430 in CAULKING!!! I just wanted to see exactly how much this has cost the others who have done this job.
Tom, S/V Miss Wendy, Allied Seawind II #16
1496 Feb 7, 2002
We removed our rail with the boat in the water, checked all the ¼" bolts, found two that needed replacement, found 2’ of teak wood strip that needed replacement, then ground down the large screws about ¼" each to prevent them from penetrating into the interior of the hull, reinstalled the rail using the screws but dunked them into 5200 before screwing them in. Then with the rail installed put just enough 5200 on the upper and lower edge of the rail to create a seal. I think we may have gone through 3 tubes of 5200 or so. On our last voyage to the Bahamas we took lots of green water over the first and second decks without any sign of a drop of water coming aboard anywhere. I firmly believe the cure was the 5200 on the end of the screws and of course grinding them down ¼" as before they penetrated into the interior of the hull and water dripped off them inside under less severe circumstances. My opinion, everyone has one, is that you do not have to fill the cavity with anything, besides if you do that what on earth will you do if in the future the rail has to be removed?
January 14, 2005
The aluminum ASWII rubrail sections are available.........
TACO Metals catalogue: rigid extrusions: 2 21/64" X 1 29/64", TACO # A-110257
Lewis Marine can special order and ship the 20" length
Howard, Please post this data to the Knowlege Pages