January 4, 202

John Wiswall reports the rubber in our portholes can be found here:

Wefco Rubber Mfg., Co., Inc.
21000 Osborne Street, Unit 2
Canoga Park, CA 91304

PH: 818-886-8872
FAX:  818-886-8875




August 1, 2018

Robert Pomeroy reports:


I recently had the 4 fixed "portlights" re-built. The original gasket was completely oxidized, the glass was spider-webbed and they leaked. I scoured the web looking for someone who could help me. It seems that mostly people simply trash what they have and replace with new.


Finally, I found a shop that helped me: Sonset Marine in Michigan. Sonset advertises that they re-bed hatches, but I thought they might be able to rebuild the portlights as it seems like a similar exercise. I shipped my portlights to them and they returned them beautifully rebuilt. I thought their price was very reasonable.



Thu Jul 6, 2000 4:08 pm


I have found someone who would consider an opening port. I have spoke with

Richard with New Found Metals, Inc. concerning opening ports for Panache, 27X7

5/8. He stated approximately $1,500. for tolling up and approximately $440/50

per port. I mentioned several would probably call concerning opening ports for

an Allied Seawind Mark II.

New Found Metals

240 Airport Road

Port Townsend, Wa. 98368

360 385-3315 or 1-888-437-5512

Fax: 360 385-6097





Sep 9, 2001 11:41 am


My Seawind was built in 1982 and also has 5 bronze portholes. It seems that some

late models were built as such.



Sep 9, 2001 10:11 pm


Daybreak in Hull # 122 in CT has 5 Bronze ports. I believe it was an extra cost

option. That makes three that I know of 130 (post break-up of Allied), 122 and




Sep 10, 2001 11:46 am


I don't know the origin of the picture (website homepage), but can state that

I've seen a number of SW's with 5 ports on the port side.

It may have been a change with a particular serial number.

Date: Mon Sep 10, 2001 11:51 am


My vessel is serial #129, a 1981 model, but the ports which are presently

painted are from a Canadian firm and made of a metal similar to aluminum. Now

the odd thing is the brokers sheet listed them as bronze but they look aluminum.

Any thoughts anyone? I'd sure like to know for sure which they are.



Sep 11, 2001 12:16 am


If memory serves me correctly there were only 129 boats built by Wright/Allied.

Some incomplete hulls were sold at auction as were the molds shortly after the

Allied demise.

Ports that open from the inside and hinge out seem a very strange arrangement

indeed. In my humble opinion this appears to be a boat that may have been

finished by a buyer of one of those few auctioned off. Opening ports almost

always open inboard as far as my memory is served.



Sep 19, 2001 12:35 pm


One of my opening ports on my SW II has a cracked frame. Can anyone give me

recommendations for replacement? Also I am wondering how I can clean up my fixed

aluminum ports and replace the gaskets in them. One another issue is the

replacement of the gaskets for the opening ports on the inside where the lens

frame clamps down. Can you use household weather stripping for this?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Sep 19, 2001 4:28 pm


I had the same problem on my Seawind. The opening ports are all plastic and the

sun baked them too much.

So, I replaced all of them. The same ports are still available through West

Marine. The size was just a hair off; I had to file some of the openings in the

boat after removing the old ones. The job wasn't too bad; about a full day for

all 4 port replacements.

I think the old ones were glued in; I used silicone and #10 through bolts on the

replacements to be safe.



Sep 20, 2001 12:39 am


First, plan on two dry days

Second, have a helper

Third, remove nuts, then using a quality screwdriver with a wrench to turn it

with, back out the screws. If they don't come out, use a tool that you hammer

which turns a hardened screwdriver bit to get it started. When removing screws

ensure which hole you took them out off and thats

where they will have to go back in. They are different lengths. After removing

all screws, washers and nuts, use several flat blade putty knives and a steel

wedge to slowly pry (with breaking) the outer flange off, then do the same with

the inside section. Scrape off all old

plumbers putty off boat and parts, clean with mineral spirits. Drill out the

outer flange holes to proper size so bolts will slip in easy. If outside flange

is broken, you can either have it welded or epoxy with fiberglass cloth. Then

purchase new plumbers putty, roll it in your hand forming a long line about 1/4"

diameter and place in corner of port all around and force port into place. Then

have your helper hold it in place, go outside, and roll another piece of

plumbers putty and place on the outside, slip the flange over and hold with

clamp, tighten clamp gently until the port is in place properly. Note: several

clamps may be needed to accomplish this, then force putty into screw holes and

install screws and bolts, you may need to tighten the clamps to get bolts in far

enough for the nuts to go on. If you need further help, advise.



Sep 20, 2001 8:58 am


Don has given you about the best procedure anyone can.

I may only add to this that the frames (aluminum) on my boat have been filled

and faired with an aluminum epoxy compound, then powder coated with nearly the

same color as original. I have replaced the lenses with 1/4 inch, tinted Lexan

The original seals, as far as I was able to discern in the past two years, are

not available any longer. However, I was able to get something close from Ocean

Dynamics in Florida. They are on the www net but I cannot seem to find the part

number I have used for my modification. The seal is shaped to surround the edge

of the Plexiglas lens rather than to jam between the outer land of the frame and

the lens.



Sep 20, 2001 3:22 pm


Bomar makes a very nice but very expensive aluminum port ($400 each) that fit my

boat (K-32) and was easy to install. I went to that after trying a less costly

plastic port and hating its appearance. Bomar made the ports on demand which

meant a slow delivery (perhaps four weeks). I seem to remember that I got a

lower price by ordering through West Marine (rather than direct from Bomar).

There may be other good, lower cost solutions also.



Oct 9, 2001 3:26 pm


This weekend proved to be another learning experience that I thought I would


Early on in the refit process we removed the fixed port from the main salon. The

original plywood fascia panels on the cabin sides were consigned to the dumpster

also in favor of displaying the original cabin liner as it seemed to add a bit

more dimension and allowed the installation of the full-length grasp rails to

accent the shear line so much better.

The idea proved to be attractive but filling the many and various screw holes

with something akin to the original color proved to be impossible.

My answer was to create a full-sized veneer of white, Fiberglass Reinforced

Plastic to mask the pocks for each side. The original aft cabin bulkhead had

been originally hole-sawn to accept four large, analogue instruments and the

same material is now masking these holes both inside and from the exterior. This

lightly pebble-grained material is often used in restaurants for wall covering

in kitchens and bathrooms. Its flexible, durable, inexpensive, sold in 3 X 6

panels and very washable.

In any case we went about trying to fit the aluminum frames back into the same

openings and discovered that the length of the many attaching screws limited the

amount of space between the actual lens mounting frame for the exterior and the

interior trim frame. The original thought was to simply shorten the machine

screws and remount the ports. Further investigation revealed that the inner

liner and cabin top are not joined do not maintain a uniform distance from each

other and thus forms a very wide drain for water to run through until it finds

its way to the final lip of the liner, found just above the locker and outboard.

The faint traces of salt still adhering to this lip led me to discover that

dependent upon the attitude of the boat this drainage sought all sorts of

inconvenient places to run along before finding its way to the cabin sole or the


To solve this problem we have inserted small wooden wedges into the gap, around

the perimeter of each opening, to provide a uniform, combined, dimension of the

outer cabin top surface to the inner, veneered surface of just more than 1/2".

Into this gap we will paddle in a thickened layer of epoxy. The wedges, once

removed will create the new spaces as the layers will be held apart by the

first, cured epoxy mix and these too will then be filled. With a new and uniform

thickness of the liner and the cabin top molds the ports will be re-installed

with adequate bedding and new seals.

*** I have not been able to find seals that are exactly the same as the

originals but managed to secure a roll of very adequate weather-strip from Ocean

Dynamics http://www.oceandynamics.com/

I sent a small sample of the original to them and they sent me back about eight

different style samples to try out.



Dec 28, 2001

I am not aware that any Seawinds had factory Bronze ports unless this was a

special order. I replaced my original plastic ports, which leaked, with Bronze

ones from Spartan 15 years ago or so. I don't know if Spartan is still in

business, they were an offshoot of Cape Dory in Massachussetts.



Dec 30, 2001

Bronze ports. Evidently the later SWII's (mine is #122) were offered with them.

They are the same rectangular ports I saw on a Princess recently and I assume

they were put in at the factory.



Jan 8, 2002

The gasket for my port aft window hangs down form the top. Does it need adhesive

or do the screws need to be tightened? What would a person replace them with?



Jan 8, 2002

Before going offshore, I had to address a couple of leaky windows, and all

gaskets showed light surface UV cracking. Unable to find replacement gaskets, I

unseated all the windows (inside and outside, can take some elbow oil). I

scraped old sealant and reset with the original gaskets outside and Life Caulk

inside (which I prefer to Life Seal when possibly called to unseat in the

future, much easier to unseat). I then smeared the gaskets outside surface with

a clear silicon sealer, which improved the aspects and water shedding, and seems

to arrest surface cracking. It still looks OK after 3 years in the sun,

including one year in the Tropics.

This would be a good test. If you find the bedding dried out, and any of the

other windows has the smallest leak, I would extend the rebedding to these other

windows and, if time, all fours. I have had no problem with the smaller

portholes forward of the windows, except with torn bug screens.

I also rebedded the two hatches. Finally, I removed the top aft crossbeam of the

companion hatchway, varnished it to prevent rot, and rebedded it, thereby

stopping for good a stbd side leak (oozing above the Loran and VHF and chart

table in a seaway!) which had defied the preceding owner's efforts for years,

these efforts limited to caulking around the forward beam/roof joints.



Feb 23, 2002

This received from the L-33 group;

I'm forwarding a reply that I received from New Found Metals in Port Townsend,

WA to a query about the possibilty of producing opening portlights to replace

our old and aging deadlights in our Luders cabins. Since everyone I've talked

with about changing the crazed plexiglass in our cabins has nightmares to share,

I thought that maybe it might be worth the

money to put in real portlights that also help air the main cabin. In any event,

here are both the reply and my original query. Frankly, I think there are enough

of our boats and Seabreezes out there to create a small demand for 8 x 28


Dear Curt,

We do have in mind to make the 8x28. I am not sure yet if we make it in

stainless or Bronze. I am off to my New factory in March and maybe can get a

start on them them, If we do them in bronze the price will be about $495.00

each. Thanks for the tip on the gasket. I will see what I can do

I've got a couple of queries that maybe you can address from your China

connections. First, I know that the cost is probably out of sight, but I'm

trying to replace the large deadlights on the cabin of my old 1969 Luders 33.

They are rectangular and measure 8" x 28" or 6" longer than your longest

portlight. How hard would it be to extend the length of the existing molds and

cast a longer one in ss? Then, the critical question would be how much? If I

decide to do this, I will need four. There are also about 100 of these old

classic boats still out there sailing as well as the other Allied boats like the

Seabreeze that used the same size. All of the portlights on those boats were

cast aluminum as were the rings for the cabin deadlights. All of the existing

boats have 6 portlights. There are also active Luders 33 and Seabreeze

associations so there is probably a small market for replacing the old with new.

Most of these are due for replacement. Let me know a potential cost for the 8 x

28s and I will email the Luders association. I was looking at the Rutgerson

portlights used on the Swedish Najads. They measure 7.5" x 28" and would

probably do, but they are out of sight too. OK, the second querys is this:

Curt Larsen



Jun 11, 2002

Has anyone replaced their opening ports. The old plastic PhyHi ones on Galadriel

are looking pretty ratty so I would like to get new ones, preferably stainless

steel. Any recomendations? The ones from NFM look nice in the pictures, has

anyone actually looked at them in person? How is the quality?



Jun 11, 2002

While I haven't yet purchased the ports from NFM, I did have the opportunity to

examine their product in great detail at the Miami Boat Show. I spoke with their

President and Chief Design Engineer who pointed out quite a list of features his

product has over the competition, such as alloy content, gasket technology,

drain angle and depth, superior dogging mechanism, etc. All this at the best

price when compared to ABI et al. Down the road, after some other upgrades, they

will certainly be my manufacturer of choice.



8937  Feb 21, 2009


Hi All,

I replaced my 4 large ports in the main cabin of my Seawind 30 at the end of the summer last year. In order to go sailing while waiting for the new ports to arrive, I bought new acrylic and re-installed the old portlight frames by drilling through both sides and through-bolting them. Now that the new ports are in, I have 4 frames available. Acrylic is like new, some of the fastener holes show some signs of bi-metal corrosion pitting, but all-in-all they are in good condition. They fit in an opening 8" x 27.5". Overall outside dimensions of frames are 8.5" x 27.875".

Bill Sullivan



8938  Feb 21, 2009


Hi, Bill

Congratulations and  good luck with your new ports!. I'm not planning on any changes right now,but I sure would like to know all the details of what you put in, who made them, what did they cost,are they fixed or vented,and most of all what made you change from the originals?  I would consider that job for the future but right now I have too many other things that need doing. Thanks for any info you can offer; any chance of pictures ?

                                                            Bob Burton

                                                           Hooligan  k 40




8939  Feb 21, 2009


Hi again  Bill

 I just realized you did post pics, thanks,  Bob B



Vertical Measurement








8942  Feb 22, 2009


Hi Bob,

Sorry for the long post - but replacing my ports was a long process!

I think I had the original acrylic in my ports when I bought Patience in 2007 - they had a lot of crazing and the ports leaked. Previous owners had applied a variety of goop to stop leaks and the area around the frames was a mess.

I wanted to keep the boat looking as original as possible, but I couldn't find frames that presented the same appearance on the outside. I also wanted to keep the dimensions of the replacements close to original.

The old ports had to come out so I could measure for the new ones. As you know, the original frames sandwich the cabin walls. Stainless machine screws pass through the inside frames and screw into the tapped holes in the outside frame, but do not go all the way through. Stainless fasteners in aluminum = corrosion, so I had to drill out approximately half of of the machine screws. My most successful technique was to use PBBlaster, wait awhile and then attack the machine screw with an impact driver. If that didn't work after 5 attempts, I'd drill out the screw. It was early March when I started this, so I had to cover the holes in the cabin walls with plastic.

For the replacement windows, I considered Lewmar (didn't have frame that matched the dimensions), Motion (good design for a slider, but I wanted fixed and they seem to use the same frame for both), Diamond (good windows, lots of options) and Bomon. I chose Bomon because I liked the frame design for their "New Sail" fixed ports and because
the owner, Willem Boon, is very accessible and takes great care to get the measurements right. It's not as easy as horizontal and vertical dimensions. Diagonal measurements, corner radii, wall thickness and camber all come into play. In addition, Willem has to rely on the customers skill (or lack thereof) in measuring precisely. It took several tries to get my templates correct. At the time, the boat was in Maryland and I live in CT, so I had the boat yard where the boat was winter stored create the first templates - big mistake - they screwed it up and cost me a month of sailing time. I re-measured and based on that, Willem had questions, so I had to measure again - each measurement was a 600 mile round trip. By this time, it was July, so I had the boat launched with the plastic still on the cabin. I wanted to go sailing while I waited for the new ports, so I had to temporarily reuse my old frames. I bought some acrylic and used the old windows as templates to cut the new ones on my band saw. The outside portions of the frame still had
the remains of the old fasteners in them, so I drilled holes through the outside frames to match the inside holes and through-bolted the frames and windows back in place with a minimum amount of sealant (GE Silpruf) because I knew I'd be removing these ports and cleaning up the sealant again soon.

When I finalized the measurements with Bomon, they had a long manufacturing lead time, so I didn't get the windows until early September. Installing the new ports is a two person job, so I hired someone to help (Dan at Green Point Marina, Worton, MD - a good craftsman, I highly recommend him). Dan had a laminate trimmer, which was the perfect tool to clean up and slightly enlarge the openings for the new ports. It took two days to install the ports and I was happy with the result. The only thing I would do differently is the measurement of the fore and aft camber of the aft
ports. I told Willem to make the ports flat and there is actually a slight bend in the cabin wall as you look down on it from above. The new frames were able to bend to accomodate the curve, but it put more stress on the fasteners then I wanted to apply. The ports performed great on the trip from MD to CT last fall. I had some drips during a driving rainstorm, but I re-tightened some screws and haven't seen it repeated since.

I paid $288 per port for 4 ports. I thought this was a fair price give the amount of custom work in them. US-CDN exchange rates and the particulars of each job affect the price, so I can't say what they would charge now. Well, that's the story - let me know if you have any questions.

Bill Sullivan



8943  Feb 22, 2009


Hi, Bill

 Long answers aren't a problem, especially this time of year.I sympathise; I replaced my fixed lenses because of scratches,but the P.O. had the frames refinished and the screws came out easily.(that's when I

started to think about new ports) I think the price you got was very reasonable. I also bought two boats in

Rock Hall, M.D.,so I know about "the drive". It's interesting that you mention the curve in the side wall; I don't recall that,(it was two years ago,and I didn't have to remove the frames) but a good point to remember.

  I have thought about rebuilding or replacing the two roof deck hatches, but they don't leak (yet) I would only replace with new if I could get a very good fit/match. There's a guy in your area who will refinish &

reglaze for about $ 400/ 450 , which i thought reasonable. I looked on the website for your photos, but could

not locate them,how can I access them ?. Thanks for the info and I wish you a lot enjoyment with your boat.


                                                             Bob Burton

                                                             Hooligan   K 40

                                                             L.I., N.Y.




8944  Feb 22, 2009


The overhead hatches on the Seawind 11 come from Atkins and Hoyle in Toronto.  They are reasonable to replace either the lens or the entire hatch.  As I recall they have a website.  We replaced all the deadlights in Silver Spray prior to selling her this Spring.  We removed the old portlights with frames, sent the frames to the welder/metal shop to be repaired, then powder coated, we had lexan lens cut at a glass shop, they took all to an auto body windshield shop to install the lenses and seal them.  While it involved some running around the whole project came in for under $300 for all 4 portlights.  As I recall the lenses from Atkins and Hoyle were $90 each and they come with new rubber seals, and goop to install with.  It is not a terrible project.  Just an afternoon.  However, if you want to remove the wooden teak frames and reseal around them that is a long a tedious project requiring patience and a careful hand.





8945  Feb 23, 2009


Hi Bob,

Can't find my photos? I clicked on the Photos link in the left hand navigation frame on the group webpage and I could see/open my albums. They're on the third row as it is currently organized - one is titled "Patience - 1968 ASW1" and the other is "Patience – Port Replacement".

I noticed the "LI NY" cruising area in your signature - where do you keep Hooligan?




8946  Feb 23, 2009


Great pictures, Bill.


A hopefully helpful little tip to others – when I clicked on that Picassa website, it didn’t work. You have to delete the period at the end of what comes up…and it works.

 My ’72 ASWI doen’t have those forward port holes.  I think that would be a very nice feature. ‘Wonder why they quit?

 Patience is beautiful. What is that hull color? Dark blue?  Black?

 My cabin interior is a woody-looking texture like by your stove and behind your clock.  Did you paint the white otherwise….?  I like that look better.






8948  Feb 23, 2009


Hi Tad,

Thanks for the nice words on the boat and pics - I claim no photographic skill, strictly a "point and shoot" photographer. Patience has a dark blue hull and I'd say it's a 100 foot job at this point (i.e. if you get within 100', you start to see the flaws in the paint).

Regarding the interior, I didn't do the white paint on the bulkheads, that was the prior owner. I intend to re-finish the interior (white on the faux wood grain, satin varnish on the wood trim), but I have to get a handle on leaks from above and below before I do that work.

I like the little round ports too and didn't know that they stopped putting them in the ASW1 before the end of the run. I want to buy the book that Dan Smith wrote about the history of the Allied Company. Perhaps that will explain what happened to them.

Bill Sullivan
Patience - 1968 Allied Seawind 30
Carousel - 1971 Bristol 24
Old Saybrook, CT