Date: Mon Oct 1, 2001 4:17 pm

Part of my survey recommendations was to check the area in the bow where the bobstay attaches. Can someone tell me how to do this?

Date: Tue Oct 2, 2001 1:28 am

Looks to me like this can't be done without destructive testing (see photo). This was taken under port veeberth. Noticed on some boats used a ss rod bobstay. I don't know if Pickpocket's was replaced or original. This chain arrangement seems a bit heavy for the chain plate used but is

more forgiving of collisions.

Bobstay Access



Date: Tue Oct 2, 2001 11:45 am

The bobstay contains a large attachment piece on each end. This is screwed on and this is where crevice corrosion takes place. To inspect:

1. slacken the headstay till very loose.

2. Remove cotter pins, and pin, then remove the bobstay from vessel. Note: it sometimes helps if someone stands on the platform to remove the tension on the pins while another drives them out. Don't loose them in the water. We use a small wooden dingy so they fall into it rather than

on the water.

3. using a large vise, attempt to unscrew the attachments, heat, liquid

wench, etc.

4. after removal, inspect the thread area looking for crevice corrosion. If found a new SS 3l6 rod will have to be procured and of course the replacement is a reverse of above.

5. This is a better course than having the bobstay unit explode under heavy sail at sea, pulling the entire teak platform up with the pressure of the sails. We do this every 10 years to prevent any surprises.

Date: Wed Oct 3, 2001 12:31 am

The higher res version of that photo (1 meg) better shows that there may be access (I dismissed this before ). The point at the bow is entirely glassed in but has a plywood piece that provides support for the veebirth deck or may also be a cover for the chain plate access. This plywood piece has no visible screws or means of removal. In any case this area is only accesible by humans if the veebirth deck were cut away.

The pipe thru the bowsprit was a homemade anchor Davit ("Was" is now buried in a spare parts bin). Someone fashioned this from 3''CS pipe welded to a 4 1/2''sq plate. The spare 25lb Danforth and chain was hoisted up thru the bottom and pinned until needed. I guess this method was as good as any available in the 70's early 80's. The Danforth now hangs from the pulpit and is destined to be my stern anchor. I now have a 3 1/2''D. hole with no purpose (any suggestions? comical or otherwise?) I do intend to stowe a 33lb Bruce and a 35lb CQR on two rollers on the sprit at the ready. I realize this is a lot of weight on the bow but I anchor out often and like the accessability and safety of this arrangement for sand or mud bot in a heavy blow. The hole provides an oportunity to build a staggered pass thru bow roller arrangement that might leave enough clearence for both anchors and the bobstay turnbuckle, but I may have to remove more

lumber than would be adviseable. Please offer allternatives, photos.





Date: Wed Oct 3, 2001 9:06 am

My V berth deck is screwed to cleats that were glassed to the hull sides. I have removed it with a bit of "finding" the screw heads under the paint. It was not a really bad job. The fun was grinding away all of the fiberglass used to install the tank up there. But there is a very distinguishable lump in the area of the bobstay tang. I suspect that the tang could be removed from the inside with a bit of judicious and painstaking grinding, cutting and carving. The old unit should be left intact so that a duplicate can be fabricated from a 316 grade stainless steel,with similar angles. The removal/installation therefore would preserve the exterior gelcoat. Electro-polishing the replacement should be a very necessary step as corrosion is almost a surety for any encapsulated stainless.

As I have had to fabricate several replacement "rod" bobstays in the shop in Tortola, I have had the opportunity to see that each one that had failed had done so in the area of the machined threads. This phenomena leads me to believe that the stay should better be served by using either chain or wire as a replacement over rod. My suspicions seem to arrive by the observation that anchor and mooring lines often are exerting side pressure on bobstays. The fittings for chain and wire are apparently more capable of withstanding this force. In this is my observation and opinion but the metallurgy would be far more Jack's bailiwick than my own.

Date: Wed Oct 3, 2001 12:52 pm

A year ago I was motoring down the ICW with a friend steering my SWII. I was below, on the SSB chatting with friends when I heard the engine go into emergency reverse. I ran onto deck as the headstay bounced off a bridge! For some reason my friend thought we could slide under a 20 foot high bridge.

The only damage was a small crack in the bobstay fitting, on the fork end that is screwed onto the rod. After thinking about it, as Paul suggests I realized that the bobstay is subject to side loads, so replaced it with 5/16 1x19 wire and two Norseman fittings. The 5/16 matches the strength of the 1/4 headstay given the more acute angle it's on. This arrangement has been very satisfactory.

I considered replacing the pin in the bottom Norseman with a big shackle, since this would be a great place to attach the chain snubber, but decided against it because it's so hard to reach down there if something fouled.