One Seawind II owner I didn't see on your listing is H. Lee Brooks. I met Lee and his wife cruising aboard their Seawind (B'rer Rabbit, perhaps?) in the Bahamas a couple of years ago. The last address I have for him is: P.O. Box 699, Bookeelia, FL 33922 (813/283-7320). Lee is a professional boatbuilder, having built many commercial boats in Florida. He has also managed his own boat repair service. He is a great professional resource for the association, and I'd recommend that you try to get him aboard!

I'm enclosing a copy of a flyer I had done up when I had SOLUTION on the market. It's really aimed at someone who has little or no knowledge of a Seawind II, but it may be worthwhile for your archives at any rate. It generated a lot of interest in the boat which was eventually sold by a broker here in Fort Lauderdale. I'm prejudiced, but I feel that SOLUTION was one very sweet boat! (ANNEX IIIB, attached)

I particularly enjoyed the letter in your newsletter from my friend Dr. Dick Weaver, who has probably cruised as many miles as anyone alive in a Seawind II. He has customized his boat for his needs and he's always working to make it better -- something I really appreciate in a boat owner.

A few comments based on specific points in Dick's letter:

-- I had a good many hours on my Westerbeke 30 engine (I forget how many now) but never lost an oil cooler. Perhaps one reason was that (following good advice from a good mechanic) we replaced the oil cooler before we began serious cruising, keeping the old one as a spare. We also did the same with the raw water pump, starter, starter solenoid, alternator and heat exchanger. One advantage to this approach: you KNOW you have the right parts before you leave and you're starting with new stuff. You also know the old parts you removed will fit your engine if you have to change back! Except for occasional overheating, we had very little in the way of problems with our Westerbeke 30. It proved a good, reliable engine which was simple enough for me to maintain and, occasionally, repair myself.

-- How do you know when you have water in the cylinders? A diesel mechanic told me it would sound like someone hit the engine very hard with a sledge hammer when you try to start the engine and there's water in the cylinders. He's right! A VERY LARGE sledge hammer wielded by a giant! What happens, of course, is that the pistons slam up and try to compress the water. Being basically uncompressable, the water stops the pistons short with a loud and sudden CLANNNGGG! My comment upon hearing that the first time was "Jesus, that sounds expensive!" Turns out all I had to do was back of f on each of the injectors and blow the water out the injector ports by turning the engine with the starter. It makes a hell of a mess out of the starboard side of the engine room. (Try using a plastic drop cloth.) Then check the oil -- if there's any evidence of water in the oil (opague grey color to the oil instead of shiny black), change the oil, run the engine for awhile, and check for water again. If there's no water, run the engine for five or so hours, then change the oil once more. If your boat is prone to a problem like this, it makes good sense to start and run the engine at anchor or at the slip for awhile after you've had a downwind sail in heavy air or seas. That way when you leave the boat for the night you'll know that there's no water in your cylinders. Sleep soundly!

-- I'll beg to differ with Dick on the safety of propane. We cruised for most our 12 years of ownership with a propane stove and oven made by Shipmate and, to my knowledge, never, ever had even a hint of a problem. Our 20-pound propane tank was installed in the cockpit beneath a cover that made a nice table. We added a drain in the cockpit that emptied above the waterline so any possible propane leak (which we never had) would drain over the side. We used an off-the-shelf 12-volt Marinetics brand LP solenoid control valve to open and close the gas supply at the tank, with the switch placed near the main companionway ladder; its red light glowed as a reminder anytime the valve was open. Our installation was in accordance with ABYC standards, and it provided safe, economical and efficient cooking for us for many years. In a Seawind II, I'd go the same way again without guestion! Kerosene and alcohol? You have to be a glutton for punishment to use them these days!

way down the ICW, we'd often drop the anchor for 15 or 20 minutes while waiting for a bridge to open. The anchor windlass may just have been the best labor saving device we ever added -- after the Hood Seafurl furling gear.

Global Positioning System (GPS). I have cruised a fair number of miles around the Bahamas, the Caribbean basin, Bermuda, the Chesapeake, the Atlantic coast and the Gulf coast with Loran and SatNav as shipmates, and SOLUTION had both when I sold her to Allan Landsman two years ago. Compared to the old fashioned way (sextant, tables, clock and compass), they're wonderful. Since selling SOLUTION, I've cruised a couple of thousand miles with GPS, and I'll say this without much fear of being corrected: once you've used GPS you'll never want to go back to Loran or SatNav! GPS is accurate to within 60 feet, provides 24-hour-a-day coverage in ALL weather, provides full coverage anywhere on earth, and provides more accurate speed over the around in formation than your knotmeter and more accurate course over the around information than your compass. (In fact, when I was cruising the Great Barrier Reef this summer aboard a 70-foot trawler with a wonderfully accurate gyro compass and knotmeter, we still relied on GPS for course and speed because it provided better course and speed information!)

Anyone considering a better Loran today would do well to at least look at GPS. There are more expensive units, but in terms of accuracy and user friendliness none is better than the Magellan. At Bluewater Books & Charts we sell the new five-channel Magellan 5000, a self contained, waterproof and portable unit (which actually floats if you drop it over the side), for $1,450 -- no more than a top quality Loran such as a Trimble or Northstar. If you want to include this in the newsletter, telephone me before you go to press -- the price may be even lower!]

One final thought: many Seawind II owners have probably bought their boats with the idea of distant cruising. If so, there a non-profit organization known as Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) that's been around for nearly 40 years. It's main purpose it to promote leaving a clean wake and to share cruising information. They publish a monthly "Commodore's Bulletin" which provides good cruising information to help the true cruiser and inspire the armchair cruiser. They also publish an occasional eguipment survey, with statistical and other information from their 3,000+ members on which eguipment for cruising sailboats works and which doesn't. They also sponsor an insurance program for cruising sailors that many members have told me saves them hundreds of dollars a year while providing insurance for areas most insurance companies won't even consider. SSCA dues are $22.00 a year, and back bulletins are available. I've been a member for at least a dozen years and have gained immeasurably from my association with other members, many of whom have circumnavigated (some several times). This is a truly non-commercial organization for cruisers (and wannabees) by cruisers, and it offers lots of camaraderie for cruisers. For more information, write to: SSC 521 S. Andrews Ave., Suite 10, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301.

Now, that's enough for one letter. No doubt you'll be getting many more from other SW II owners, present and past.

All best wishes,

Designed by: Thomas Gilimer

Built by: Wright-Mied Yacht Co.

Where Built: Catskill, New York

Year Built: 1978
LOA: 38'4"
LOD: 31'7"
Beam: 10'5"
Draft: 4'6"
Sail area: 555 sq. ft.
Headroom: 6'2"
Bridge Clearance: 44'6"

Displacement: 15,000 lbs.

Ballast: 5,980 lbs.

Engine: Westerbeke 30 diesel, FWC

Transmission: Hurth short profile

Reduction: 2:1

}li2180 Rig: Ketch (cutter rigged)

Hull Color: White

Deck Color: White with beige nonskid

Spars: Anodized aluminum

Rigging: 1 x 19 stainless steel

Sails: 7 (mostly Hood)

Water: 106 gallons

Fuel: 40 gallons

I apologize for taking so long to respond. My excuse is that I have little of any interest to report. Therefore, by way of introduction, I should tell you a little about us.

Eleanor and I live in a small community on the south shore of the Magothy River, just north of Annapolis. We raced dinghies for several years, finally giving it up after all the kids grew up. They were beating us badly anyway. Our first venture into "big" boats (1985) was a Catalina 27. We moved up to "Dutch Treat" (former "Whisper") two years later.

This was quite by accident. One snow filled winter afternoon in 1987, we were having lunch in a restaurant overlooking Deep Creek (just off the Magothy). We found ourselves admiring a snow filled ketch in a slip next to the restaurant. A couple of months later while boat shopping for a solid ocean capable cutter (without success), the broker asked if we would like to look at a ketch. We said yes, made an appointment, and met him in the parking lot of the same restaurant. We bought Dutch Treat that afternoon.

The back issues of SEAWIND WORDS are great. I have been after a nagging leak into the port side lockers for the past two years. I have caulked and re-caulked the chain plates several times. I have also removed and re-caulked the fixed ports. All without success. The hull/deck bond never occurred to me. When I haul this winter, I intend to remove the rub rail and see what can be done. If there are any good solutions to what appears to be a common flaw, I would like to hear about it.

I have made no notable modifications to Dutch Treat other than the addition of headsail furling. We chose Hood Seafurl and have used it for the past two years without complaint. As we get closer to retirement and the lure of the waterway, I am sure we shall make additional changes to increase habitability.

The enclosed is to help defray printing costs. If more is needed, please let me know. The information in these past newsletters is like gold and will surely free me from a lot of trial and error.

�"...We have so far made only a few changes, but plan to make some more. The first thing I did was to open up the stand-pipes in the dorade boxes. There are two pipes in each box. I cut out the headliner below each pipe and filled the space with fiberglass filler between the headliner and the upper deck. I put teak trim rings with screens around each vent, and it looks very nice. This change doubled the air flow below and made an amazing difference. In this southern climate we need all the air we can get.

I put a Beckson 8" inspection plate in the sole of the head so that I could get at the bilge area that is just forward of the water tank. There is a lot of room there for storage. We carry water jugs there for long trips. With the right kind of jugs, the space accomodates about 8 to 10 gallons. While I was at it, I did away with the flimsy base that the head sat on. I fiberglassed plywood uprights onto the hull and put a small flat top on them before bolting the head onto the assembly. It is now quite solid At the same time, I re-f iberglassed the whole shower pan so that water would not leak into the bulkheads. I covered all of this with white gel coat and it made a very nice shower.

The stainless (laugh) steel water lift muffler was leaking around the welds at the neck, so I threw it out and made a heavy fiberglass one. My wife came home one day with a Kentucky Fried Chicken bucket which made a nice mold for the muffler.

The oil -cooler/heat-exchanger on my W-30 sprang a leak while on a trip to the Dry Tortugas, filling the engine crankcase with sea water. I bypassed it and drained out the water, putting in old oil that a fellow sailor and I had on hand. I flushed the engine, and then put in new oil. It now runs well, but uses about a quart of oil every 80 hours or so since then. Previous to that incident, there wasn't any oil consumption between changes.

The (Westerbeke) W-30 must be a tough engine, as mine has over-heated several times, run with the crankcase full of water, over-revved to 4000 rpm for a couple of minutes, and towed another sailing vessel about 150 nm in windless conditions. It has 2200 hours on it, and still does about 6 knots at 1800 rpm on 1/2 gallon per hour.

On that same trip to the Dry Tortugas, the reed valve in the fuel lift pump came loose in its seat and the pump wouldn't pump fuel. I could not do over 1400 rpm with speed of 4 to 4 1/2 knots since the injector pump was being fed by gravity only. It took a while to figure out what was wrong. I put a new paper gasket under the reed valve and peened it back down with a screwdriver and hammer. It is nice to know that the W-30 will run without the lift pump functioning, even if it is slow.

As for the oil cooler that they want nearly $300 for, I borrowed a friend's torch and in about six hours I put all new copper in the old one - - and so far, so good! I re-routed the sea water hose that runs from the pump to the cooler so that it goes under the engine crankcase. There, I installed a small seawater strainer that hangs directly under the engine. This catches any pieces of water pump impeller blades or other matter before it gets into the oil cooler.

I have done some re-plumbing and re-routing of hoses and wires to get more room and to clean things up. I took the forward lift bracket of f the top or the engine and, with the re-routing, I am now able to crawl into the engine compartment and get all around the engine.

We cut doors under the V-berths to match the one under the forward sink. This greatly improved the access to the through-hull valve and to the storage area under the bunks - - no need to lift cushions and whatever might be on them. In addition, I installed a shelf on the port side (the through-hull valve is on the starboard side).

The *@#$! 24-gallon plastic holding tank is forward under the V-berths. It has always been plumbed for fresh water; good thing, as it leaks.1 I haven't decided what to do about a holding tank yet. (Ed Note: See John Winters' write-up on his holding tank installation, in this edition of SW2W) I would like to have things legal, but to replace this one means tearing out the whole forward area. I berth my OSTINATO next door to Don Bundy's TALISMAN (Sw2 129K). Don had a fiberglass holding tank made which is heavy but which works alright. The forward bilge area under the head and amidships could be used also, but I don't know what would fit there or how to install tankage there and run the related hoses. I would like to hear from owners who have solved the problem. (Ed Note: Please, owners, give your editor a copy of the advice you send to Ken so that we can publish it in the next edition of SW2W.)

I changed the upper 1 1/2" bushing pillow block on the rudder shaft to a ball bearing type. The rudder shaft was being worn by the bushing and I didn't want it to get any worse. I placed the new bearing on top of the platform just under the rack gear. It works fine.

We had a hull/deck joint leak on the starboard side, starting just forward of the nav station. I cleaned the old sealant out all the way to the star board locker, and then filled the joint with Marine Tex epoxy. It hasn't -leaked yeti The port chain locker hawse pipe leaked, also. Water would run under the flange down onto the headliner and drip into the top locker behind the port settee. I routed out the balsa core about 1/4" back and filled it with Marine Tex. Then I put 5200 under the hawse pipe flanges: No leaks

On the port side, aft of the ice box, is an Allcraft 5-gallon hot water heater that works very well on either engine heat or 110v shore power. It heats up fast and stays hot for up to 18-20 hours, depending on usage. Outboard of this is a Sail Kool frig that works well if I keep the batteries up.

Under the helmsman's seat is the best piece of equipment on the boat - -I call it "Ben". It is a Ben-Mar chain-driven auto pilot. It's very much out of the way, doesn't use much electricity - - works when the batteries are low. The control hangs on the forward bulkhead of the wet locker. In bad weather, the helmsman can steer from inside or while sitting in the companionway.

The dodger is free standing, meaning that the fabric does not hold the frame up. It has two bows supported by four vertical posts. The cloth can be zipped off and the frame put down in a few minutes. I wanted it strong to support me or the boom if needed.

The bimini starts just aft of the mizzen mast and goes to the stern. It has three loops, the main one is on track slides. It can be lowered onto the combing but very seldom is. It is just below the mizzen boom and gives good shade. We could not do without it here in Florida. The only problem is furling the sail and that is really slight when you learn how. You have to go out board of the pushpit to properly flake the sail, but we don't do this under sail anyway. A line or two around it while standing on the cockpit locker is all you need, in fact several times we have just dropped it on top of the bimini and just let it lay there.

Two inch thick floatation foam cushions cover the entire cockpit, and are very comfortable. I put a screw type snap shackle on the bottom block of the main sheet which makes it very easy to take off and store out of the way, on top of the dodger works good. One of the reasons we bought the Seawind was for her great, comfortable cockpit. In an area like Florida you use it a lot. We have a very active sailing club and when it comes time to trash "OSTINATO" we may have 10 to 12 people or more on board. This is when I move the main sheet, put the steering wheel in a locker, put all the cushions out, use the Force 10 BBQ, and have a great time in paradise.

"OSTINATO" had an epoxy bottom job in 1988, when I bought her the first of this year there were no blisters. She has Micron 33 on her, works very good, I will have to do something in a year or so.

I'm a little short on canvas, 150% and 100% head sails, main with two reefs, mizzen with none, and a cruising spinnaker. The 150% is a mylar by Dolye on a Famet Easy Furl. It is cut high so it doesn't catch water, clears the bow pulpit, and is easy to see under. It has a foam luff and will shape good all the way furled. The Famet is very good, easy to turn and simple even if it is a little big and heavy. I have never even taken the time to pull the 100% working jib out of the bag so don't know how it will sail. Just looking at it in the bag the clothe looks good. The cruising spinnaker (flasher by Ulmer) is in a sock and works well, and is very colorful. All of the sails work well and the boat is well balanced, and of course can be trimmed to manage her on helm.

I know my boat and Bundy's "TALISMAN" sail fairly well to weather. No racer mind you but she will beat 45 degrees either side of true wind. On one occasion with another skipper on board we tacked through 85 degrees three times, it depends on the seas, wind and current. Naturally she's best on a close reach. More than anything I think tuned rigging and a good head sail make the difference.

A Delta 35# sits on the roller, hooked onto 25 foot of 5/16 high test and 140 foot of 5/8 nylon. At one time I had only ten feet of chain but the anchor drug one time for about 100 yards before digging back in. Of course I had four other boats rafted on, all larger, as "TALISMAN" was rafting on in the 20 to 25 knot northern wind, the Delta drug. This rode is in the starboard locker. In the port, I have 300 feet of 5/16 high test for bad situations. Other anchors are Danforth P-35, Danforth 13# and T3000. In the cockpit locker I keep 250 feet of 1/2 nylon and couple of 10 foot sections of chain, as well as 100 foot of one inch three strand nylon. The vertical, Simpson Lawrence manual windless is on the forward deck between the cleats and works fair to good. It doesn't have a lot of power but is fast, and goes from the nylon right to the chain with no problem. I thought I would change it when I first got the boat but I'm used to it now and it does not clutter the foredeck and looks good there. Anyway if the deck is pitching I'd rather be down on all fours.

A few items I would like information on are. A copy of the Seawind II owners manual I would very much like to have. The mizzen, portable or running back stays for the staysail, how is it rigged on the mast and how and where on deck? Drawings of the main boom crutch. Information on what type of wind vanes have worked on the Seawind II, what problems are encountered with the ketch rig. I would very much like to have a lines drawing plan and a drawing of the sail plan. I could use these to do all kinds of carpentry work and also buy sails, besides I would love to see the sweet lines that Gilmer drew. He must have done a good job and the keel must have some lift in it, because here is a story that is hard to believe but is true. I had her in a slip on the

Anclote river and was doing some work one beautiful day when the skipper of "VAGABOND" walked by. He stopped and looked for a minute and said "what's holding your boat?". I didn't know what he was talking about and asked him. He replied "look at your lines they are all loose". Sure enough they were all sagging and limp. He reached out and grabbed the bow pulpit saying "you must be on the bottom", as he very easily moved her around in the slip as if the boat was skating on ice, she definitely was not on the bottom. We moved her around for a few minutes and she would always kind of stay where you put her. We couldn't figure it out and went on talking about the next sail. Later after he left I noticed she was back hard on her bow lines in the strong ebb.

Later that night I was talking to a sailing friend, whom I race with, and has a lot of boating experience I told him about the incident at the dock. He suggested that as the boat is in the slip parallel to the river current, that just at the right amount of current the keel produces just enough lift to kind of make her go forward to counter the aft pushing current. This puts everything in equilibrium and could account for the way the boat was just kind of free, floating in air so to speak.

"I've been home-ported in Portsmouth, RI since day one (1979). Occasionally, I do get away for cruising. I'm mainly a single hander and I've sailed from Camden, Maine, to Key West. The only international sailing has been on the Havel River, Berlin, Germany for a short two weeks.

The winter of '86 1 sailed to Florida's Gulf Coast, crossing Lake Okeechobee. I then wintered in Bradenton Beach. Home again in the spring and back to work.

Last winter I tied up at friends' home in Pompano Beach, just of f the Intercoastal Waterway. Then it was a few short trips with them up and down the east coast of Florida. Also single-handed to Key West, which was a great experience. However, I was very disappointed in not getting out to the Bahamas. It was in my plans, but

This winter I made plans for hip surgery in Boston. Doctors convinced me to forget it for the time being, so here I am - - too late to go south.'

20 By the way, I'd like to say "hello" to the Rhudys (040K) of Oriental, N.C. It was a pleasure to talk to them last fall via radio while motoring up the Pamlico River. I had no trouble finding my way up to Washington, N.C. without charts, thanks to their help.

This small town has revitalized their waterfront and welcomes boaters. They offer free docks, water, and electricity. Everyone walks or jogs by, morning and evening, including the mayor: I recommend a stop here for all SW II cruises that pass through this area.

Now, "the boat": Hull/sail *90K, OFFSET of Boston. No, I'm not a printer! She was purchased new by me in the spring of 1979. I moved aboard permanently in June '79. Love the boat and love living aboard.

She's completely insulated and heated by a Dickerson "Antarctic" diesel heater (16,500 Btu) - - the Dickerson line now being owned by Balmar. Very warm and very dry. I also have TV, telephone, stereo, loran, and a Spa Creek "Auto-Mac" (headache) for quick charging.

I use nothing but Sears R/V 110 A-H batteries. Two in parallel for everything; a third for back-up. I replaced two this spring after 5 years; the third this summer after 3 years of constant use. They are recharged by a Bomar charger which, I might add, is 12 1/2 years old. Some years ago I did have a problem of overcharging, but Bomar repaired the charger at no cost to me. Another performance "first" is my Rule "5 Year" bilge pump. It has worked every time for the past 12 1/2 years (knock wood!).

After 8 years, I replaced the condenser and module on my Adler-Barbour refrigeration system. The second unit is still going strong. I believe that success with these units depends upon their constant use. In the same vein, my first dodger lasted 10 years. I never fold it or remove it, summer or winter.

I shower every day with fresh water. Cruising, I use salt water and then go below to quickly rinse off. The problem, after 8 or 9 years, was rot at the base of the oak compression post. I tried repairing it with plastic wood, but that didn't help. I had visions of being hard over and the mast going through the coach roof! I replaced the oak with a teak 2"x 5" post. After slacking the shrouds on deck, we were ready to lift, but found that the saloon flooring would not support a jack. We had to build a bridge for support, and then gently raise the cross member to install the new post.

Another important cabin amenity: Using the original V-berth cushions as a pattern, I approached a local mattress company for a real mattress, with results much to my sleeping pleasure. Cost - $150.

Cooking: I haven't had a TV dinner in years. On a "Gas Systems" stove/oven I cook with compressed natural gas (CNG). Absolutely no complaints. The cost is another story ! Much in CNG's favor is its safety, as it is lighter than air and will dissipate into the atmosphere.

Staying below for another moment, I'm on my third set of cushions and covers in the main cabin. Keep in mind, I'm a live aboard.

To accomodate my diesel heater, I cut back 2 feet on the port settee cushion against the forward bulkhead. Using fire-retardent material and a sheet of stainless steel as underlayment, I then covered them with ceramic tile. It makes the hanging locker warm and mildew-free.

A note to Dick Weaver (075K): I, too, have the same condensation leak running across my sole - - the low corner of the hanging locker and port settee. I notice it only when the electric heater is on, and it is cool outside.

My boat, also, heels slightly to starboard. I raised the starboard boot stripe 1 1/2 inches. So far, I've had no blisters on the hull, but many small ones topside. For bottom paint, I'm happy with Pettit's "Trinidad" (tropical waters) as I only haul out every other year. I do add Star-bright's "Compound X" to the paint for extra protection against grass and barnacles. The problem I want to solve is the propeller. Tin paint was great, but is no longer available. Vaseline works for a short time. I use it on the bottom of my dinghy. It will last about 2 months.

Now, let's go topside: I don't have a large inventory of sails.. a 135% genoa, main, mizzen, storm jib, and a "Thrasher"/cruising spinnaker. All are by Thurstan. It was 10 years on the first set; 2 1/2 years, now, on the second. The roller furling is by Harken. Prior to the Harken I used the old Schaeffer system... for 10 years.

}s5 It's interesting to read how others heave-to or reef in heavy weather. Both George Rowcliffe and Dick Weaver are correct, according to the experts. In the early days, I had trouble finding literature on the correct procedure to heave-to in a ketch. In Lynn and Larry Pardee's "European Adventures", Larry addresses the subject while making a delivery of a ketch. Reef the mizzen. (Above 30 mph it should be reefed already.) Then pull the mizzen sheet as tight as possible with the wheel up and tied of f. The boat will lay 45900 off the wind and seas. The mizzen will repeatedly bring the boat back to 45 . Laying almost broadside to the weather, the boat creates her own smooth slick as she slides off. The oncoming wave will break and harmlessly flow by on either side. The harder it blows the higher you'll point. It works!

At 20 mph I drop the main; at 30 1 reef the mizzen; at 35 I furl 25% of the genoa. The last thing I want to do is go forward to hahk on a storm jib, even when wearing a harness.

You asked about a diagram of my plumbing system when I finished it. This is a copy of what I am keeping on the boat so others will understand what I did and how to work the system.

The anti-siphon vent is, of course, at the top of a loop that is above the water line. Valve (4) came with the boat and it was easier to leave it than to remove it. Valve (5) is needed because I replaced the leaking plastic holding tank that came with the boat, with a bladder tank.

Closing off that valve (5) when emptying the tank keeps air from being sucked in. Remember, the holding tank is a flexible bladder tank, and hence can be evacuated without admitting replacement air.

I used a rectangular tank of 14.5 gallons capacity, made by Vetus. It fit reasonably well into the old tank with part of the old tank's top cut off.

The pipe I used on most of the plumbing was the heavy-wall white vinyl tubing made for sanitation systems. It is sort of flexible but a bit hard to work with. However, I found that I could fit it over the valve barbs, etc., if I soaked the end of the tubing for about 45 seconds in boiling water. It was much easier to work the tubing, then.

I hope this helps Someone out there who is faced with the need for a similar or equivalent installation. I would appreciate any feedback or other ideas on this type of system.

�The entire Smith family - - original owners Norman and Evelyn Smith, and "new" owners Doug and Dee Smith and their 3 children - -use SUNPOWER (059K) extensively to the full length of Lake Champlain. Two seasons (1979-80) were spent in Long Island Sound, Buzzards Bay, and on the coast of Maine, For the rest of the time SUNPOWER has been in fresh water.

At age 15, she needs only very little work. The main problem is the leaking around the deck-hull joint when rail-down.

Intend to slowly upgrade the electronics during the next 2 years: GPS, Autopilot, Radar, all for a planned trip up through the canal to the St. Lawrence River. Then around the Gaspe Peninsula to Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Maine, and eventually back up the Hudson River and barge canal to Champlain. Probably would be a 2-season voyage.

We would be interested in hosting or organizing a SEAWIND II gathering on Lake Champlain one season to introduce and expose fellow owners to our little secret - - the Virgin Islands of New England.' Would also be willing to organize a "fleet" cruise around the Gaspe, if anyone is interested, summer of 1993 or 1994.

An adequate electrical system seems to be the most neglected part of the well -found cruising boat. The builders provide a system that is more appropriate to an automobile, and the owners don't know what to do except to replace their batteries every two or three years and do without all the nice things that an adequate system can provide for them. I am planning to do some extensive cruising and have been looking into electrical systems, so I thought some others of you might be interested in what I have learned.

On my Seawind, typical of most I suspect, I have an ammeter on the alternator. What does it tell me about my electrical system? Very little, I'm afraid. It will tell me how many amps the alternator is generating, period. It tells me nothing about how much electricity I'm using from my batteries, the state of my batteries, nor anything else. Aside from that, it can only be read in gross terms; five amps is about the best interpolation you can hope for and then only when on your hands and knees in the bottom of the cockpit.

My system management is as crude as my instrumentation. When I shut down in the evening I select one of the two 105 amp-hour batteries then I go about my business of supper, log work, plan tomorrow's sail, read a bit, and eventually the lights are too din for any of these activities, so I go to bed. Next morning I switch to the other battery, start the engine, then switch to both batteries and charge them until the ammeter is below ten amps. Next evening I repeat the process using the other battery to even up the wear.

Once in awhile the engine won't start because I haven't been charging enough, or because the batteries are 'worn out. Every three or four years when the batteries 'wear out' I buy some new ones, but that's just the price we pay for our pleasures, right? Well I have been learning that it isn't right and it isn't necessary.

r The more astute among you (astute in the sense of having looked into electrical systems) will recognize that I have committed the two cardinal sins of lead acid battery management. First I over-discharged the battery, then I either over- or under-charged it depending on how my luck was that day and how long I wanted to listen to the engine. A lead acid battery should be discharged to the 50% of capacity point or less, and then should be recharged to about 85% of capacity. But how do I know where these points are located with my lone ammeter?

Batteries can be recharged (and periodically must be) to full capacity, but this takes too long in normal operation. The last 15% will take three to five hours of very carefully controlled charging to fully charge them without boiling off the water. This can be done about once a month if you have the equipment. More on this later.

Batteries don't normally 'wear out.' They are murdered in their infancy by management such as I give mine. A battery lasts three years; four if we have been lucky, instead of the seven to ten years it should last. Good batteries will last even longer, perhaps twenty years, but we don't buy good batteries. They are just as easy to kill as the cheapies and won't last much longer when they are treated this way.

Probably I don't have either, considering the electrical loads that I have on the system. My 210 amp hours of capacity should be upgraded to at least 300 and probably nearer 400 amp hours. I should be able to charge at about a 100 amp rate to avoid excessive engine time and control the charging so that the batteries reach 85% of capacity without damage.

Having defined our needs, the next step is to obtain adequate information about what is happening in the system at various points. What is the state of the batteries? How many amp-hours have been used? How much of the alternator current is actually being used to recharge the batteries; how much to run the boat? How long do I need to charge the batteries?

In order to know the state of the batteries we must use one of two techniques. We can take a hygrometer, clean out the starboard locker, then crawl inside and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte periodically as we are charging or using the batteries. This does become a bit of a drag though, since you would need to do it every hour or so. A better alternative is an accurate, precise voltmeter.

Many companies sell 'battery monitor' instruments. Invariably they are expanded scale voltmeters that can be read perhaps as closely as half a volt, if we are lucky enough to have one that even reads volts. Most of them give you vague red, yellow, and green areas that are supposed to tell you something. These will not do. The difference between a fully charged battery at about 12.68 volts and a half discharged one at 12.20 volts is not even readable on a typical needle voltmeter, even with an expanded scale. Instead, we must have one that will read to a hundredth of a volt, and only a digital voltmeter will do this for us.

Checking the charge side of the equation requires an equally precise ammeter that will tell us both how much the alternator is producing and how much is going into the batteries. It must also tell us exactly how many amps we are using when we aren't charging, of course. And then we also need to keep track of how many of those precious amp-hours we have used.

We could keep track of the amp hours with a pencil, paper, stop-watch, and a keen eye on our precision ammeter, but most of us won't bother. An amp-hour meter that adds them all up for us is much easier. It will subtract what we use and add back what we put in while charging. We will always know exactly how many of those little amp-hours are available for us to continue what we are doing, and exactly when we must recharge as we reach the SOX of capacity point.

Once we have the instruments to tell us what we are doing, the second need is to be able to properly control the system, especially the charging cycle of the batteries. Experts say that a lead acid battery should NEVER be discharged below the 50% charge level or 12.2 volts. Charging should take place as rapidly as the battery will accept the current until the battery is about 85% charged, and periodically they should be charged to as nearly 100% as they will take.

In order to get more charge into the battery we must change our technique and the typical voltage regulator is unable to do so. We should use about 14.2 volts initially, then as the current tapers off to about 10% of capacity, or 10.5 amps for my battery, we should drop to 13.8 volts. From here on the current should be controlled rather than the voltage. The standard regulators are incapable of shifting into over-drive in this way.

We could increase the voltage from our voltage regulator, but that would just over-charge the batteries as they aren't capable at that point of handling the increased voltage. Continuing to pour in 14+ volts, even at low amperage, will over-charge the battery and cause it to boil. You and I see this as the frequent need to add water to our batteries, because this is what our voltage regulators do to our batteries if they are set just a bit too high.

The initial bulk charge should be at a rate of about 25% of the capacity of the battery (my 105's should be charged at about 28 amps - or 56 amps if I am charging both of them). Charging should begin at 14.2 volts initially. As the batteries recharge the amperage should taper off slowly and at about 10% of the initial charge rate the voltage should be dropped to about 13.8 volts. We should continue charging at a low amperage rate to bring the batteries to the 85% charge level. This is called the absorption cycle and is generally putting in current as fast as the batteries will absorb it.

In practice you will see a charging current at about 20% of capacity for a period of time, then the amperage will drop to zero or even a slight discharge. After the batteries rest (allowing time for the internal chemical reactions) the amperage will ramp back up to the 20% level and resume charging. After a couple of cycles the charge rate will very rapidly drop below the 20% level as the battery voltage rises.

During the absorption cycle of the charging process the alternator voltage is held at 13.8 until the maximum current flow drops to about 5% or less of capacity (about 10 amps on my system). The batteries are now about 85% charged, perhaps a little more if they are new batteries. Continuing to charge to the 100% level will now take many hours and isn't practical on a daily basis. If you are using an amp-hour meter to keep track of your usage it will now read very close to zero, shoving that the batteries have reached their 'normal' fully charged state.

Instead we should put the batteries onto a float voltage of about 13.2 volts. This is the maintenance level and the batteries can be maintained near fully charged with no gassing and no harmful effects for rather long periods. If the battery is fully charged it can be 'floated' for an indefinite period -many years- with no loss of efficiency or life expectancy.

Failing to fully charge the battery allows lead sulfate to accumulate on the plates. With time the sulfate flakes off, drifts to the bottom, and eventually shorts out one of the cells. The sulfate that stays on the plates reduces the efficiency of the battery. If you really want to kill a battery, just fully discharge it then let it sit for a few weeks. The sulfate will be thick enough that it will no longer take a charge at all.

So we need some provision for removing the sulfate. This can be done various ways, but the easiest is to simply condition the batteries once a month or so by feeding them about 4% of their capacity for as long as they will take it. This would be about 4 amps for one of my batteries, and generally three to four hours at this rate will remove the sulfate. If the battery is good the voltage will rise to the vicinity of 16 volts, ideally it should reach 16.2 volts. This controlled over-charge will convert the lead-sulfate back into lead and sulfuric acid. It will also cause some gassing and the batteries might need a bit of water when you finish. Again, the standard voltage regulator is not capable of this small controlled current charge to a relatively high voltage.

Both the instrumentation to tell what is happening in your system and the controls to take care of your batteries have been in existence for many years. These systems have also, until recently, been ghastly expensive in terms of cruising budgets.

Solid state technology is revolutionizing this field just as it is many others. Economical, efficient systems are now available to do all of these things for us. With only a little improvement in the world of batteries and systems you may only need one set of batteries in your lifetime. Even now if you use premium batteries such as Surrette or Rolls and properly care for them, you probably won't need more than two sets.

Two companies are building variations of these control and instrumentation systems: Ample Power Company and Cruising Equipment. I will provide addresses for these shortly, as well as some further reading. Balmar is also beginning to enter the field, and I'm sure that there are others. Each of the companies sells a variety of instruments and components that will provide you with the information and control you need to manage your electrical system.

I hope to be able to write of more direct experience in the future in using one of these systems. I also plan to write more on batteries (worth a volume or two at least) and battery chargers as I continue my studies in these areas.

Sources:

Cruising Equipment (Rick Proctor and Neal Fridley)

6315 Seaview Avenue, NW

Seattle, WA 98107

Phone: 206-782-8100

Ample Power Company}par 1150 NW 52nd Street

Seattle, WA 98107

Phone: 206-789-5758

800-541-7789

Balmar Products

1537 NW Ballard Avenue

Seattle, WA 98107

Further Reading:

"The Bullet Proof Electrical System"

(Available from Cruising Equipment. This is also a catalog of their equipment).

"Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power"

(Discusses a great deal more than electrical systems, including refrigeration and other topics.)

"Wiring 12 Volts for Ample Power"

�We purchased the Allied Seawind II ketch "Seagull", hull 014, March 21, 1990 in Naples, Florida. She was lightly used as the 10 year second owner had health problems for some time. The Westerbeke 4-91 hour meter was inoperative at 890 hours and the owner estimated the time to be 1000 hours. The survey showed a few problems which were corrected at the owner 5 expense: The cutless bearing was slightly loose and was replaced; The bottom rudder shaft support was loose so a new bronze bushing was installed; The heat exchanger dripped from it's end cap corroding the oil cooler- both were replaced at a parts cost of $400 and $300; The genoa was resewn where stitching was frayed; There was one 1-1/2 inch blister at the waterline, it was left and it's appearance has not changed.

Interior: Off shore model with starboard pilot berth which is used as storage for items in milk crates, sewing machine, portable stereo, etc. The previous owner built of teak an excellent double bookcase with Alladdin lamp holder on the port bulkhead. The lamp is great for heating in cool or wet weather, very bright and adjustable. Two dive tanks in padding fit to port behind the back cushions. screwed a canvas lee cloth under the port berth cushion where it is stored with the line to lace it's eyelets to the overhead handholds when at sea. The stove is an alcohol Kenyon 600, long obsolete though burner repair parts are available. We carried our propane camp stove for backup or if in a hurry. A Hella turbo fan is ceiling mounted to the port side of the companionway. It is very efficient and moves quite a lot of air with only a 180 ma. draw. We installed single tube fluorescent over the icebox and just inside the V berth ceiling. This second one provides reading light in both compartments with only a half-amp draw. In the V berth port side 4 holes were drilled into the upper back of the anchor locker to accept fishing rod tip ends and pole spears. Further back a notched piece of teak with flat swiveling gates supports the other ends up and out of the way.

Navigation Equipment: The depth sounder and knot-log were antiquated. We replaced them with Standard DS10 and KL10 liking their reputation along with the lifetime flat rate repair warranty. We installed an Apelco 6300 Loran C mounting the antenna at the top of the mizzen mast. We carry a Lokata RDF which is used infrequently but could back up the Loran.

Cockpit: The mizzen boom being only 5 feet high was intolerable. raised the boom 12 inches and had 10 inches cut from the mizzen's foot. Our sail plan drawings indicate that modification #3 of 12/11/75 lengthened the mizzen tube one foot. This likely corrected the problem on later models? A small canvas shop designed a bimini that fit beneath the boom from the mizzen mast to the mizzen sheet. The $450 cost was reasonable and it is the most important addition we have made. had aluminum boos on the original model but it has worked so well we have left it as is. Judy sewed Sunbrella weather cloths to provide privacy as well as protection from wind and spray. A motor mount block holds the 4 hp Evinrude on the stern rail. Closed cell foam cushions with washable slipcovers make comfortable seating.

On Deck: We installed port hoods and appreciate them in wet conditions. Our 8 foot Sumner hard dinghy is carried forward of the mast. At anchor it's bow is raised with a halyard making a combination wind scoop/raincover for the forward hatch. It is launched and retrieved with the main halyard and whisker pole. The inflatable is carried beneath the main boom or is deflated. Our swim ladder (manufacturer unknown) Is a removable flat-step folding type, 41' x 6"x 12" folded, that mounts In 2 slotted fittings at the port gate. It Is strong and stable, has 2 rubber-footed standoffs and Is used boarding the dinghies as well.

Ground Tackle: We upgraded the 25 lb. CQR to a 33 lb. Bruce with 60 feet of 5/16" chain on 200 feet of 1/2" nylon. It Is carried on the bow roller alongside the 20 lb. standard Danforth which Is pinned In a hawse pipe with 20 feet of 3/8" chain and 150 feet of 5/8" nylon. Whenever possible I dive on the anchors to check or reset them by hand. Our last night In the Bahamas brought a squall of around 60 knots and most boats dragged, several past us.

Sail: The 130 genoa Is on a Famet Profurl. We have come to like roller furling for cruising and the sail set Is not bad even partially furled. Our main has 3 sets of reef points. We blew the lower seam In gusty Bahamas winds and spent 8 hours stitching hole for hole with heavy dacron thread.

Engine/Running Gear: Fram filters are Installed. When first replaced the prim filter/separator appeared to have had lengthy service with thick sludge around the bottom of the cartridge. during subsequent replacements both filters have been clean. Biobor or other additive Is added at each fueling. We suck warm engine oil through the dipstick with a Water Puppy bilge pump. Fram PHl6 oil filters are about $2 at discount stores. Fram discontinued manufacture of the CA12 air filter in 1990 so we stocked several found at a small boatyard. The raw water pump Is a Jabsco 5320-0011. Back to back Impeller failures were caused by a severely etched wear plate. After installing a rebuild kit, polishing then greasing the housing we had no further problems. Our Hurth drive rear seal has been leaking and will require replacement. I have been told it is a small job and also that it is a major one. Does anyone have advice?

Electrical: We have no refrigeration and selected low current electronics and lighting to manage consumption. Three Delco deep cycle maintenance-free batteries have worked well. Their capacity was less than expected until I discovered that whenever a battery was selected by one of the bank switches about 2 amps flowed through the alternator field winding. Some wiring changes are evident so I believe this Is not normal. I 'd guess the ignition switch, If there was one, or possibly a fuel pressure switch should open this circuit with the engine off. To get around this I put a plug on the battery switch field disconnect wires. this Is connected whenever the engine Is run to charge batteries. The Guest battery switch failed (field disconnect always open) and the manufacturing date stamp of 1988 showed It had been recently replaced. The new one purchased In a sealed package was defective- I checked It with a meter before installing and the field disconnect was always open! After a phone call to Guest products In Meriden, CT. the switch was returned with a letter suggesting that they may want to disassemble It to determine the fault In their manufacturing process. Despite several letters, no response or refund has arrived as they promised. We received a Guest anchor light at a farewell party which also failed to operate out of the box and required exchange. I would not recommend their products.

Misc: A 650 watt Honda generator is wrapped and strapped forward in the port lazarette. Judy operates her sewing machine from it and we needed it once when the batteries were too flat to start the engine. made a rain-catcher with a 10 X 12 nylon tarp, a thru hull in the center and some 1/2 inch garden hose. It attaches to the shrouds but becomes unusable in more than light winds. It has collected 30+ gallons in minutes. "Joy" dish soap saltwater baths end with a rinse from the warm sunshower. To it's hose is added a sink dish rinsing hose assembly with the press handle. A better spray from increased pressure results from being pulled higher on a halyard. The head would intermittently overflow because of a corroded check valve ball that would not always seat properly. I built an entry alarm using Radio Shack components costing around $30. A loud siren warbles continuously if the system is armed and the companionway hatch slid 1/2" or more to gain entry. If anyone wants the plans, I 'd gladly furnish them.

Before our next cruise we'll install an autopilot and possibly refrigeration. Of course then we'd need a larger alternator and possibly a wind generator. Sure be nice to convert to a propane stove too and.........

-------------------- # --------------------

FIRST YEAR OF CRUISING ON "PICKPOCKET" (010K), BY THE GUNETHIUSES:

Judy and I left Minnesota January 15, 1990 with a small RV and trailer to travel 3000 miles on the boat search. had subscribed to Florida Sailboat Trader for several months clipping ads and grouping them in scrapbook fashion. Though we had not yet seen an Allied Seawind, Proper Yacht and Practical Sailor were favorable in their evaluations. There was a page in our book for them, one being for sale in Naples, Fl.

From Charleston, S.C. to Melbourne, Fl., from the Florida panhandle to Naples we left a wake of brokers and owners wondering why they couldn't sell us something we didn't want. A phone call to the broker in Naples arranged a next morning appointment. drove by that evening and sat looking with that feeling coming on. After a thorough examination the negotiations, sea trials and survey became just formalities and Seawind II, hull 014 was ours.

After a short sail out to Southport we enjoyed the ICW to Norfolk then out again to New York City. We stayed two weeks at Marine Basin Marina in Brooklyn visiting our son who settled there. What a contrast in one day's sail - New York City to Cold Spring Harbor! That night with our Tchaikovsky music wafting across the anchorage a white swan glided up to us in the light of the full moon-Magic! We reached Plymouth, Ma. and enjoyed sightseeing, especially Plymouth Plantation.

Two of our children in the military arranged to visit us in New York City so we quickly sailed back and had a grand reunion. We retraced our route South via the Dismal Swamp Canal and the ICW to Riviera Beach, Fl. our jumpoff point to winter in the Bahamas. Agonizing weeks followed as the Persian Gulf War unfolded with our daughter in a desert tent maintaining MO aircraft at Dhahran, Saudi Arabia. We entertained visiting friends and family much of the winter and enjoyed volunteer work at the Catholic mission school in Marsh Harbour.

Summer arrived and we reluctantly departed Grand Cays for Jacksonville having one difficulty along the way. Starting the engine to charge batteries revealed that the water pump impeller was gone, the spare that we had installed just days before. Our oil change bilge pump connected between the inlet and the heat exchanger worked well and the St. John's River landmark was our son's aircraft carrier, the Saratoga, just returned from the gulf war.

We put Pickpocket in storage at the friendly marina in Green Cove Springs and returned to renew the cruising kitty. My retirement pay begins in 22 months at age 55 and we may then sell the house. Until then we are working extra jobs to save all we can.

The best part of cruising was the wonderful people on other boats and ashore. Pickpocket lived up to all of our expectations and performed flawlessly in all conditions. We look forward to the day we sail her again.

�ROM PETER KNOWLES (010K), OF BEND, OREGON:

Last November my wife, Christy, and I purchased our SEAWIND II ketch, sail number 10, in Seattle, Washington. After years of searching for a particular style and construction of vessel, we found this boat through John Martinson, a very good broker for Sailboats Northwest in Seattle.

The boat had been on the market for over two years and had essentially lain idle for that period or longer before we took her for a test sail. We wrote an offer that was contingent upon the test sail and a survey. The sail was satisfactory, but the survey pointed up numerous items of concern.

The customary negotiations followed; we being encouraged by the potential we saw in a boat that could, in time, be rehabilitated into a seaworthy vessel. GENTLE PROMISE II, as we now call her, became ours and is currently drydocked in Seattle for extensive work such as:

The boat's condition reflected several years of disuse, a peril to any boat's wellbeing. This necessitated not only the extensive repair & replacement work such as mentioned above, but also comprehensive cleaning throughout the interior of the hull. The installation of updated electronics and cabin amenities will bring the boat up to present-day standards, to our great satisfaction.

Back issues of the newsletters are in hand, thanks to John Winters (083C). Those newsletters have answered some of my questions, to-date. I also have the parts & service manual on the Westerbeke 4-91. A manual for the boat, itself, would be wonderful to have, as would suggestions and advice regarding repairs, replacements, and reconditioning of almost anything that would respond to such attention! (A little word of cheer & encouragement from other SW II Owners would be of great comfort to Christy and me, as we labor, hands-on, with this enormous project.)

-------------------- # --------------------

As I promised, enclosed are a few words about my experiences with the truly wonderful diesel engine cleverly hidden within my Wright Allied Seawind II. few years ago, at an in-water boat show, I met a former salesperson for the Allied firm. This individual had spent many hours at the Seawind factory and informed me of a fact that I had already suspected but truly didn't want to hear. The Westerbeke 4-91 engine was indeed installed into the hull before the deck molding was installed and sealed. This very permanent installation, well hidden from view and even better concealed from reasonable access, demanded a fine engine that would require a minimum of service and be extremely durable. The good news is that the basic engine block is a British taxi cab diesel designed and built to provide long and hard service. (It's a British "Leyland" engine long since gone out of production). The bad news is that this beautiful engine was imported and "modified" for marine duty by Westerbeke, a company long on advertising hucksters and short on engineering skills and quality control.

In November of 1989, "Practical Sailor" magazine ran an article "Life with Prudence P.". The article alluded to some not so pleasant experiences with the Westerbeke organization. Having had some similar experiences, I wrote to "Practical Sailor" about my victimization and "Practical Sailor" published my letter to them in their February 1, 1990 issue. copy of the "Practical Sailor" letter is attached.

The moral of this tale is simple. If any of our fellow Seawind II owners are faced with the problem of repowering with a new engine, and your mechanic even suggests a new Westerbeke, run as fast as you can and call the police. If someone suggests a Universal diesel, be aware that Westerbeke now owns and operates the former Universal line of marine engines. This is not well known and not heavily advertised. If any are unfortunate enough to have to repower, insist on an engine fully created for marine service by its original builder and not bastardized by a "supplier to the marine industry". Perkins diesels are one brand that is still supplied by the original builder in a marine form. Perkins has discontinued manufacture of the 4-l08, an all time "quality" engine that really is too big for the Seawinds. (I'd enjoy the challenge of putting one in. What a motorsailer that would be).

I'm sure I have now offended the true sailors amongst us but having slugged many many miles on rivers that are not wide enough to tack upon, I can assure you that the 4-91 will only provide around 3 knots thru the water in the face of a 20 knot headwind singing in the rigging. Perkins 4-108 would allow the Seawind to travel at hull speed (around knots) in the face of such headwinds and greater. Incidentally, the code for interpreting diesel numbers used to be: 4 meant four cylinders and l meant ninety one cubic inch displacement. Thus, a Perkins 4-108 is a 4 cylinder 108 cubic inch displacement engine. (While the displacement of 108 cubic inches is only a little more than our Westerbeke 91 cubic inches, the available power output (horse power) is close to double.

The really good news is that with a little tender care and constant attention to the junk that Westerbeke attached to the engine, our little taxi cab engine should outlive the Seawind hull which in turn should outlive all of us.

Most of the engine attachments that Westerbeke provided can be replaced with-out removing the engine from the boat. You may have some unkind words for Thomas Gillmer and his ideas concerning engine access, but a few aspirins (to ease the arthritic pain) and a little Vaseline applied to the appropriate body parts to ease passage between hull and engine, will for the most part., provide the defective part freedom from its' confinement. If it's a Westerbeke part, for heaven sake don't send it to Westerbeke for repair or replacement. If possible, have a local machine shop effect the repair or replacement. If the part required is a "Leyland" part, unfortunately Westerbeke is the only place you can get it and you will pa -------- ! It's extremely unlikely that you could create such a part for less than Westerbeke will charge, which in turn is the basis for Westerbeke's price. GOTTCHA!

Frequent replacement of the following filters, along with at least a once-aseason or every 100 hrs. or less, draining and replacement of engine oil should keep your taxi running just fine.

Oil filter Fram part/number PH16 or NAPA p/n 1307 about $3.00

Fuel filter AC Delco p/n ACD51 or NAPA p/n 3l66 about $4.00

Air filter AC p/n A249C about $2.50 each. (This part is not common

stock at automotive supply houses. I had to get my dealer to order a case of filters for me. A case is 6 filters and costs around $16.00). The Oil and Fuel filters are usually in stock since they are in wide automotive use. The air filter was originally used on a gasoline powered golf cart. (Ain't too many golf courses that allow gas carts anymore). AC is the only manufacturer I could identify who still manufactures this very obsolete filter. If you need them, better buy some while they are still available.

For oil, I use SAE 30 with the designation SD. SC is OK but SD is better. SC, SF, & S6 are not diesel engine certified. You should use an oil that is rated CC or better.

At the risk of boring you, I can always tell when my fuel filter needs replacing. The engine begins to speed up when I'm slowly trying to come along-side a dock. Sounds crazy I know, but it has to do with the flow of fuel to the engine speed governor. Our 4-91 is speed governed. When you think you are opening the throttle, you are really advancing the speed governor. Next time you cream a dock at near full throttle, blame it on your fuel filter. At a minimum, you'll impress no one and witnesses may in fact avoid you in the future. (Us geniuses are so often misunderstood).

Well Dick, thats about all for this entry. I'm not a diesel expert and I wouldn't dream of trying to rebuild my basic engine block myself. I prefer to leave that to real machinists and engine rebuilders. I have however , had to repair and even redesign some of Westerbeke's attachments just to keep my Seawind II (Summerwind) hull # 5, going. I've been pretty good about changing oil and filters and while my engine has around l600 hrs. on it (the hour meter quit quite awhile ago) the little engine is running strong.

Regards,

I have a question with regard to the weakness of stanchions and lifeline fittings (Oct 1, 1989).

Why doesn't anyone use stainless tubing all the way around, instead of just for the pulpit and the pushpit?

George Ross

San Juan Capistrario, CA

Dale Nouse. in his generally excellent analysis of tethers and hooks (Dec. 1, 1989), makes a few observations that I feel should be debated.

I have two comments with regard to tire recommendation not to use the quick release shackle. First, Mr. Nouse requires a jackline/strong point arrangement that does not permit the user to go over the rail. I know of no such arrangement that allows you to effectively perform all on-deck functions and still keep you from going over the rail.

Second, Mr. Noose says quick-release shackles can open inadvertently. or when shock loaded. In my opinion, the probability of accidental opening is negligible and about equal to a Wichard safety snap accidentally opening. The shock-load opening of snap shackles takes place when two forces occur simultaneously: high oscillations and high-end force loads, such as snap-shackled sheet on a flogging headsail.

release type tethers, and then for a period we offered both. Now all we manufacture are quick release type.

J. Kelsey Burr

Survival Technologies

Group

St. Petersburg, FL

I feel compelled to write regarding a problem I have with a Wichard tether hook.

Just outside the companionway I installed two U-bolts on the vertical surface of the bridge deck for safety harness attachment.

If the hook is twisted so that the torsion bar bears against a leg of the U-bolt, it will release with uncanny and scary ease. This can also happen with an eye bolt.

John S. Dennis

Charlottetown, PEI

As a yachtsman, a member of the ABYC, and President of a marine industry-related company, I deal constantly with the requirements for building and retrofitting electrical systems on boats of all sizes according to Coast Guard specifications. You should be aware that there is one set of regulations regarding pleasure craft, and a completely different set dealing with Title 33, Inspected Vessels.

In either case, the wiring described on the Tartan 34 (Dec. 1, 1989) under the paragraph headed "The AC System" does not meet specifications. Part 183.435 states that the wiring for systems over 50 volts must be of stranded construction. Solid conductor wiring is not acceptable on any yacht according to these specifications.

The other problem I have with this article is in the paragraph headed "Battery Charging." The K-Mart 10-amp unit described is not safe for use on or around boats, especially any boat with a gasoline engine. There is a very good reason that marine chargers cost so much more than their automotive counterparts. They are designed with different types of rectifier systems so they won't blow Mr. Dwelle and his boat off the lake!

as such many might be misled by the article into leaving substandard wiring or using some equipment not designed for nor safe to use on or around boats.

Jerry Silverman

American Standard

Wire & Cable

Bayshore, NY

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