ANNUAL MEETING NOTES:

Thirty-four people enjoyed the hospitality of Lamar and Helen Neville on the evening of Saturday, October 11, 1980. Enthusiastic Seawind owners met one another and chatted with Seawind designer Tom Gilimer and Allied President Brax Freeman throughout the evening. Tom Gilimer explained how he came to design the original Seawind, and commented on owners' questions ranging from pointing ability to sail selection. Lively comments from the audience kept the mood light all night. Here are some examples:

Lamar Neville asked Tom Glilmer to explain how he might improve his Seawind's ability to point into the wind. Tom answered by saying that the main criteria were well-cut and well-trimmed sails. A boat that points higher may have sails that have been cut "flatter." In addition, Tom said that some Seawind owners claim that the boat balances better with the mizzen dropped when going to weather. Personally, however, Tom (who sails a Seawind I) thinks the boat balances better with the mizzen when going to weather. George Curran added that other factors contributing to poor trim (and poor pointing ability) are incorrect tension in the stays. (Too much sag in the forestay, for example.) Plus they may not have the right sheeting angle to the sail, and the traveller Position may be incorrect. George installed a ball bearing traveller on his boat to help in this regard -- one that he can adjust very easily. (Ball bearing travellers are now standard equipment on Allied boats.) George attributed his Seawind's pointing ability to sailing in light air with the traveller trimmed to windward almost all the way, and in heavy air with the traveller eased down in order to open UP the slot of the sail. The basic principle is the stronger the air when close hauled, the further the traveller should be eased down to open up the slot of the sail.

Lamar Neville also noticed that when several people are in his boat, the galley sink fills up with water and he asked Tom Gillmer what could be done about it. Tom said he had this question in mind when he visited the new Seawind at the show. But he said he counted 17 people in the boat and noticed not a drop of water in the sink. But others in the group said they also experienced this in their boats, and the solutions they offered varied. One person installed a gusher pump to pump the water manually, while several others suggested that putting a stopper in the sink was the simplest solution.

Before Tom Gillmer turned the floor over to Brax Freeman, several Seawind owners made a point of telling Tom just what they liked about their boats. Here's what they had to say:

George Curran: "My background is in racing, and I went through several cruising boats that were dogs. I started selling Allied boats and delivering them from the factory, and I just fell in love with the way the boat sailed, especially in heavy air. I can trim it up, and it's very easy to sail by myself. Frankly, of all the boats I've ever sailed, it's the only cruiser that feels like enough of a racer for me. I plan to hold on to my Seawind."

Oscar Anderson: "I've sailed my Seawind for two-and-a-half years through the Bahamas, through the Antilles, South America, and west through the Panama Canal out to Tahiti. Before this I used to charter boats in the Bahamas. That's where I first saw the Seawind. I really liked the lines from a distance, and once I got a closer look I also liked the way the hull was constructed and the full keel. Needless to say, we got a Seawind. The boat gives us a lot of flexibility in the islands -- you can sail right up a beach somewhere and dry out with the tide if you want to. The only thing I'd have is another Allied."

Judy Anderson: "I've never been on another 32 ft. boat that has the storage that the Seawind has. Even with a lot of people aboard (and we've had plenty) we always find that there's plenty of room."

Gene Rice: "One of the reasons we like our Seawind so much is that we feel it looks like what a boat really should look like. Just a few weeks ago in St. Petersburg, a boat approached ours from the stern and the people aboard said they had followed us all the way from the city pier just to find out what make she was."

Joe Walsh: "I like the boat because it's sturdy, but it still oes! The performance is really good for the sturdy boat that she is." Joe's wife Dot mentioned that she is somewhat of a hesitant sailor, yet she feels very secure in their Seawind.)

Talbot Adamson: "I'm really impressed with the seaworthy construction of the boat. It's really a strong boat. This summer I drilled a through-hull fitting to put a head in and . . . I just kept drilling. When the plug finally fell out, I measured it 20 and it was 1 1/8-inches thick. I don't know how many layers of fiberglass that is, but Brax [Freeman] is still making it that thick. This hull is a hell of a hull. It's really a strong boat. I have total confidence in it. If the wind's up to 40 it doesn't bother me a bit. And what's more, many people up in Maine who don't see many Seawinds often say it's the best looking boat in the harbor."}par

After questions, answers, and comments with Tom Gillmer, Brax Freeman brought the group up to date on all the changes and modifications that are currently being made in Allied boats. A slide show gave everyone a close look at the interior and exterior of new Allied boats, of the boats under sail, and of the craftsmen at work in the Allied plant.

More slides followed. This time the photographs featured various Seawind owners sailing, working, vacationing, or just plain enjoying their boats.

All in all, the weekend was thoroughly enjoyable. Aside from some occasional inclement weather, the Annapolis boat show was a great success. And the annual SOA meeting was a great success too. There was a lot of valuable information shared, and a general good time for all. Hopefully, we'll all have similar luck again next year and succeed in rounding up even more Seawind owners to share in the fun. 

As Brax is quick to point out, the improvements are not just cosmetic. Yes, the new Seawind looks even more beautiful inside and out. But her beauty is more than skin deep. Modifications have been and continue to be made in an attempt to enhance the boat in every important area:

For your interest and enlightenment, actual factory drawings of recent modifications (courtesy of Brax Freeman at Allied) are reproduced in this issue. Also, included with this issue are recent literature sheets on the Seawind II and Princess 36. Both sheets feature full descriptions along with photographs showing the interiors. Perhaps these will give you some ideas on modifying or improving your Seawind! 

WELCOME ABOARD!

John Allen, 6056 W. Valleyview Ct., Mentor, OH 44060, NORTHERN LIGHT, Cleveland, Ohio. (John's Seawind II was recently completed in Catskill.) #121.

Martin Flaherty, 604 N. Emerson St., Arlington, VA 22203. (Marty's Seawind II is currently being built.)

Gretchen Gates (Allen), 4143 51st Avenue South, St. Petersburg, FL 33733, ESTRELLITA, SW II #37. (Gretchen is a USCG licensed captain and specializes in charters, deliveries, and sailing instruction. She's raced extensively during the short time she's owned ESTRELLITA, and is interested in hearing suggestions from others who are racing their Seawinds.)

H.W. Gebhardt (Doris), 46 Cowper Avenue, Kensington, CA 94707, WINDSPIEL, SW II #107, Berkley, California. (The Gebhardts are anxious to hear how other owners have made their boats even more enjoyable.

Evans Hughes (Kimberly), 607 Fontaine Street, Alexandria, VA 22302, MOLLYMAWK, SW II #114, Annapolis, MD. (The Hughes are especially interested in hearing from cruising couples and learning more about modifying their Seawind.)

Charles H. Jacobs (Claire), P.O. Box 1305, Weston, CT 06883, HAFA DAl, SW II #66, Westport, CT. (The Jacobs want to learn more about individual ideas on improvements and cabin layouts.)

Paul McMahon, Hamburg Road, Old Lyme, CT 06371, FIDDLER, SW I #155.

Michael Mertz, 5654 N. Campbell Avenue, Chicago, IL 60659, ANNIE, SW II #120. (Mike would like to hear "all and everything" to do with cruising.)

Ralph Zepp (Betsy), 215 Seminole Street, Mobile, AL 36606, WINDWARD, SW II #24, Mobile, AL. (The Zepps asked for information on cruising, alterations and modifications, and would like to know how the cutter rig has worked out for owners who have one.)

We sold out in New York, moved aboard in June 1979, and departed Long Island Sound in September. This was our first trip on the Intracoastal Waterway and we found it a bit boring below Virginia. Glad to get out on the ocean at times to relax. Arrived in Florida on December 6, then crossed Lake Okeechobee, thru the Keys, up to Ft. Lauderdale, and over to the Abacos for a month. Following is a description of some of the modifications we've made to RESOLUTE.

First, I strongly recommend the two day instruction at the Westerbeke plant. There is much to know about the engine that is not in the book.

Secondly, our mizzen mast had much vibration when anchored in a breeze. Setting up shrouds only depressed the deck in cockpit. The wooden arch over the engine did not touch the cockpit deck overhead. Tom Gillmer said that it should be supporting and that the plates on the hull should be at least 12 square inches. I cut out the original, epoxied 2-inch-thick wood plates, 4 inches by 4 inches onto the hull, made new arch of 2 x 4 using clips and bolts so the verticals can be removed for access to engine, etc., and shimmed under the mast. As a result, the vibration is much reduced.

The 130% genoa is on a Schaeffer roller furling with a double purchase halyard. The tang for the bitter end of the halyard must be about 4 inches (maybe only 3 inches) from the top of the mast tube or the swivel keeper will bind on the forestay. Schaefer says ii inches but doesn't allow for the masthead fitting.

I have a working jib that doesn't interfere with the jenny. I cut through the bowsprit, put a tang on the stem, and put a tang on the mainmast 11 inches below the head for a wire stay and halyard block. The lower end of the stay has a 4-part block and snap shackle. Attached to the stanchion by shrouds, it's quick to rig when using a genny. To really tension it up, I added a #lOH Barient on a bracket at deck edge ahead of the first stanchion. This has been handy for winching off and hoisting anchor. CAUTION: Tom Gillmer doesn't like the unbalanced load in the mast. He called it an "uncalculated risk." Saw a SW II with side-by-side head stays, RF on one, other for any jib.

We put a LectraSan in the locker behind the head. Cut out the existing shelf and put in new one 3 inches lower to improve the access. We also put in Raritan's Y valve and T'd the LS output to the existing overboard seacock. This works fine. Added third battery on a shelf over existing batteries. Consequently I had to remove a supporting strut to check the water but that's minor to all the other stuff we must pull out of the cockput locker. If it were not for the TV, we probably would not need the extra battery. 

Had the drinking water pump motor burn out when we left the boat for a few hours. Don't know why it wanted to run because there was plenty of water and no leaks. Apparently it burned out because it was protected by a 30A circuit breaker although the specs call for a 10A slow-blow.

We're using a First Mate autopilot that was made especially for us; the actuator arm must be inclined to match the tilt of the wheel and the follow-up cable (string) must be wound for starboard installation. Actually you can do both of these yourself as long as they instruct you by phone. The bracket on the wheel must be bent to prevent interference with the case. Also the slop in the rack and pinion should be adjusted out. It has failed twice but we still feel it is worthwhile. It makes motoring bearable, and what's more it has handled following seas.

Deck scuppers: the hoses leading to the transom discharge were always in the way and full of water. So I cut them short and T'd them into P/S cockpit scupper hoses (above static WL). This has worked out well.

Main boom: used an 18-inch black rubber strap with big hooks on ends (available at any auto parts store) around mizzen mast and hooked to boom bale. This is a great way to keep the boom from swinging when it's not in use.

Engine: Swung the dipstick forward per Westerbeke instructions; this is a big help. I have a very slight oil leak at the back end, high; factory says it's due to crankcase pressure and can be cured by a kit. A new installation in a Gale Force has kit installed free from Westerbeke. We have Paragon SAO 1.5 reduction; at 500 hours found oil thrown from aft side of the shaft flex coupling. Backed off coupling from trans and found the nut (ref no. 77 in green parts list book) was loose but could not back off because of the tab washer. There is only about a 3-inch space to work in without removing the flex coupling. (Straighten tab, take up on nut using 1 3/8-inch socket with a pipe wrench, bend tab again.) I checked shaft alignment and made small adjustment to forward engine mounts and all is fine now. I put a sheet metal shield over the engine mount because the seawater pump leaks.

Stern Ladder: Got a good one from Stainless Rails, Atlantic Highlands, NJ. There was a $20 extra charge for special order to minimize interference with the mizzen. Hope he still has dimensions, but here's a sketch:

DOES NOT PROTRUDE A: 6" PLATE ANGLE SO

ABOVE STERN RAIL. STANDOFF IS HORIZONTAL.

MINIMUM PROTRUSION B: 18" -- GET LONGER, CUT

BEYOND STERN. TO FIT CURVE.

2 RUNGS IN WATER, C: 25"

ONE AT WATER LINE. D: 22"

E: 17-1/2"

HINGE PORTION OF

LADDER ATTACHES TO

CUP ON RAIL.

Awnings: made from weblon for foredeck, main boom, and cockpit. Our mizzen boom is fixed to the mast 6.5ft. up. Put sockets on the stern rail. Two aluminum posts are pinned to transverse pole for easy installation all the time. Stowing the mizzen is awkward, so swing the boom way outboard using a preventer against the sheet. Can stand under this, but my head touches.

To store awnings and poles we secured on the cabin top, P/S, 4-inch diameter PVC sewer pipe. The light gray with white caps matches our deck. Use the light weight stuff since it won't break when stepped on. Run them from inboard the dorades to alongside the seahood. The idea is from Moeller's Living Aboard.

RESOLUTE (ex-TACIT) has a pilot berth on the starboard with a slide-out settee under and to port is a settee with a swing-up back making the 6th berth. Both settees were uncomfortable for lounging. Since we are live aboards, the good pilot berth is all storage: books, charts, files, radio, TV. I modified the port side as shown in the sketch on the next page. Dorothy calls it our sunken living room but I prefer the term depressed lounge. It works well. With my lack of expertise, it was measure thrice and still cut twice.

We added a utility circuit with an external receptacle for the autopilot, spotlight, engine room lights, reading lights on port side, and fan in galley (and it's movable to foot of V-berth area.)

We're sticking to an alcohol stove although propane may become necessary as we travel. But we are using much less alcohol since we added the Forespar minigalley.

We've added a second deck pipe and bow roller, as well as a 20-gallon rubber tank under the V berth. Still haven't found or fixed the only leak: rain and sea water run along the portside hull-deck joint and drip into the locker behind the stove.

On RESOLUTE we have 2 electric bilge pumps plus a Gusher 10. One of the HiCaps is strictly for the bilge and exhausts through the

transom. The other HiCap is original equipment connected by a Yvalve to the bilge or galley sink drain. (The original pump was connected to the bilge or shower drain. We now let the shower drain by gravity into the bilge -- this works better. The pump is now used for the galley sink, the bottom of which is half below sealevel.) It is T'd into a cockput drain line below the waterline but through a vented loop. Recently we found that the HiCap bilge pump would run but not pump. There was some water in the bilge so I went to pump it out with the Gusher. It did not pump either! So I switched the Y valve and pumped dry with the original pump. Found that the Gusher had a sliver of wood wedged in the exhaust flapper valve. Found that the HiCap had a strip of plastic trapped in the impeller. Good, now we have 3 pumps again! Dorothy looked in the bilge and asked, "Where did all this water come from? " It was up to the drip pan! So I flipped on the 2 electrics and manned the Gusher. When the water was out she said she could hear water running. Sure enough! The original bilge pump was siphoning back into the boat despite the vented loop. The vent was clogged with corrosion. I had put that vented loop on because a couple of years ago I had found that pump siphoning. Just think of the irony! Three bilge pumps, 2 inoperable, and the other sinking the boat! Are you sure redundancy is good?

A major problem: With 995 hours recorded on the engine, we developed a grinding noise in reverse. At 1020 hours, the reverse gear locked up. We had no reverse and no neutral. Dodson's Boatyard in Stonington, CT cut away the bulkhead under the sink and pulled out the engine. I drove to Marblehead to get a replacement Paragon manual transmission, retaining my 1.5 to 1 reduction gear. Total cost: $809. A pinion in the reverse planetary had broken.

An interesting observation: in the many harbors we have visited so far we ve seen more Allied boats than any other make -- except Morgans in Florida and except in harbors where there is a dealer in another stecific make boat.

A few members have written to say they're interested in buying or selling Seawinds. Here are the details:

Seawind II Ketch #65, MAI NU TOI -- Oscar Anderson sailed his Seawind extensively in Tahiti but is now considering a larger boat. Anyone interested in purchasing a mint condition Seawind that's ready to cruise the unspoiled islands of Tahiti should contact Oscar Anderson at 402 E. Moses, Cushing, Oklahoma 74023.

1978 Seawind II Cutter #81, PIDGEON -- Your Seawind Words editor is interested in having a new Seawind built. That's the reason for this notice. The boat has been lightly used, sailed only in fresh water, and maintained in bristol condition. It features custom dodger by Island Nautical, self-tailing Lewmar winches, Shore Sails (main, staysail, and jib top), a 150% genoa and cruising spinnaker by Sails U.S.A., S.R. Mariner depth sounder, Delta knotmeter, knot log and much more. The boat is presently lying in Catskill, NY at the Allied factory. Price:

$55,000. For more information contact Vern luppa, 120 Elmore Road, Rochester, NY 14618, or call (716) 473-8277 (H) or (716) 244-6340 (O)

Seawind I Ketch #90, CARA -- Julie Herrick has decided to sell her Seawind in order to buy a bigger boat and live aboard full time. In excellent condition, CARA has wheel steering, a 30 H.P. Gray engine, and has had plenty of tender loving care during the two summers Julie lived aboard in New Rochelle. Anyone interested should write Julie at 48 W. 69th St., New York, NY 10023, or call (212) 920-6228 (O) , or (212) 877-4770 (H). Asking price $36,000.

1964 Seawind I Ketch, BENEVOLENT -- Sloan Wilson presently lives 45 miles away from any navigable water and he's so busy with work that he's forced to sell his Seawind. The boat is ketch rigged, with a tiller and 27 H.P. Palmer engine. For more information write Sloan Wilson, 789 Bonita Drive, Winter Park, FL 32789 or call (305) 644-1767. (Yes, this is the same Sloan Wilson who wrote The Man In The Gray Flannel Suit.)

Seawind - John Lison, 2381 Oakwood Avenue, Green Bay, Wisconsin 54301 is interested in buying a Seawind. His phone number is (414) 435-7915.

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MOVING BOATS BY LAND -- by Milt Baker

From time to time there comes an occasion when, no matter how much you'd like to sail your Seawind from Point A to Point B, doing so just isn't feasible. So you're faced with these choices:

Having moved recently from the Washington, D.C. area to St. Petersburg, FL, I was faced with just such a choice.

Leaving her where she was just wouldn't do. Particularly since I planned to live aboard for a couple of months until Judy could join me in Florida.

Having the boat sailed from the Chesapeake to Florida's west coast was altogether unattractive. The season (very early spring) was wrong, the timing uncertain, and the cost greater than shipping her overland.

So, although reluctantly, I arranged to have SOLUTION shipped by truck from Solomons Island, Maryland, to St. Petersburg, Florida. And, in spite of all my reservations, she arrived some 900+ miles later completely intact. No damage at all.

Can you expect the same kind of a move? If you're willing to take a few days to personally oversee the move, I'm convinced you can. The steps I followed were these:

If you're fortunate, you'll draw a driver like Lonnie Meyers, who hauled SOLUTION to Florida. A boater himself, Lonnie couldn't have been more careful hauling SOLUTION. And she arrived in the same shape she left in.

Lonnie didn't have a load from Florida to the West Coast when he arrived, so he offered to help me rig the boat and help sail her from the receiving yard to her new home. Altogether, I'd estimate that Lonnie gave me about 12 hours of free labor -- just because he enjoys being around boats and because he had nothing better to do after arriving in Florida.

Lonnie, a college graduate and a dropout (by choice) from the aerospace business in California, owns his own rig and works for BTI under contract. Basically, he reports, he receives 65 percent of the fee you and I pay and the company receives the remainder, less road permits (for the extra-wide load). From his 65 percent, Lonnie has to buy his own fuel -- which is significant when you consider that his rig gets only about six miles to the gallon.

With careful drivers like Lonnie, major damage is unlikely. Nevertheless, the shipper limits his liability to $50,000 unless you declare on the Bill of Lading that your yacht has a higher value. I claimed a higher value and it cost me nothing.

Of course, Lonnie and his colleagues would prefer to deliver your yacht with no damage. In some cases, particularly where negligence is involved, they're required to pay a sizable chunk of the deductible.

Most shippers will need about two weeks notice before your yacht is to be picked up. Even then, they may not make the pickup date. So try to be flexible. I was less flexible than I should have been when I scheduled my pickup for a Monday, expecting delivery nearly 1,000 miles away three days later. As it turned out, my driver was a day late on the pickup and the trip took a day longer than he expected due to permit problems. The result was that SOLUTION arrived in Florida on Friday at noon -- the worst possible time for a yard receiving a yacht.

Thanks to a super yard, a sympathetic foreman and yard crew, and, perhaps, some help from the front office, the boat was in the water by 2.p.m., her masts stepped by dinnertime, and she was ready to go within 24 hours. In Spite of the fact that I slipped and fell from the pier (completely sober too!), splitting my chin to the tune of eight stitches, Judy, Lonnie and I sailed SOLUTION away early Saturday afternoon.

0 The move, incidentally, cost me about $2,000 counting yard bills on each end. That works out to something over $2 a mile, which, in this day and age, isn't too bad. No doubt that as energy costs go higher, however, the price will go up. A final note: boat moves are not deductible as moving expenses; tax law provides for moving personal motor vehicles, household goods, and personal effects -- and the tax court has held that a yacht doesn't meet any of these criteria (sadly).

For the first few months in Florida, SOLUTION was my home. I've always told liveaboard friends that boats are meant for sailing, not living aboard. And living aboard -- pleasant as it was -- hasn't changed my opinion of that.

The problem with living aboard is twofold:

At this time I am happily ensconced in a waterfront condominium in St. Petersburg. And I'm convinced that the boat moving and living aboard have provided a worthwhile means to an end.

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We hope you enjoyed this issue of your newsletter. The membership roster enclosed should help bring you up to date on who your fellow members are and where they sail their Seawinds. This year we've welcomed many new members, but remember, we're still counting on each and every one of you to write something to your editor. We're interested in hearing about your equipment, mod7fications, sail inventory, maintenance, sailing experiences, recipes . . . whatever you have to offer. So share your experiences and see them in the next issue.

-- Vern Iuppa, Editor