ANNUAL MEETING NOTES:
Thousands of sailing enthusiasts gathered in Annapolis this past October to take part in a pretty spectacular in-the-water boat show. Since the crowd included several Seawind owners, would-be owners, and soon-to-be owners, the turnout for the annual meeting of the Seawind Owners Association was impressive too.
Thirty-four people enjoyed the hospitality of Lamar and Helen Neville on the evening of Saturday, October 11, 1980. Enthusiastic Seawind owners met one another and chatted with Seawind designer Tom Gilimer and Allied President Brax Freeman throughout the evening. Tom Gilimer explained how he came to design the original Seawind, and commented on owners' questions ranging from pointing ability to sail selection. Lively comments from the audience kept the mood light all night. Here are some examples:
Lamar Neville asked Tom Glilmer to explain how he might improve his Seawind's ability to point into the wind. Tom answered by saying that the main criteria were well-cut and well-trimmed sails. A boat that points higher may have sails that have been cut "flatter." In addition, Tom said that some Seawind owners claim that the boat balances better with the mizzen dropped when going to weather. Personally, however, Tom (who sails a Seawind I) thinks the boat balances better with the mizzen when going to weather. George Curran added that other factors contributing to poor trim (and poor pointing ability) are incorrect tension in the stays. (Too much sag in the forestay, for example.) Plus they may not have the right sheeting angle to the sail, and the traveller Position may be incorrect. George installed a ball bearing traveller on his boat to help in this regard -- one that he can adjust very easily. (Ball bearing travellers are now standard equipment on Allied boats.) George attributed his Seawind's pointing ability to sailing in light air with the traveller trimmed to windward almost all the way, and in heavy air with the traveller eased down in order to open UP the slot of the sail. The basic principle is the stronger the air when close hauled, the further the traveller should be eased down to open up the slot of the sail.
Lamar Neville also noticed that when several people are in his boat, the galley sink fills up with water and he asked Tom Gillmer what could be done about it. Tom said he had this question in mind when he visited the new Seawind at the show. But he said he counted 17 people in the boat and noticed not a drop of water in the sink. But others in the group said they also experienced this in their boats, and the solutions they offered varied. One person installed a gusher pump to pump the water manually, while several others suggested that putting a stopper in the sink was the simplest solution.
Before Tom Gillmer turned the floor over to Brax Freeman, several Seawind owners made a point of telling Tom just what they liked about their boats. Here's what they had to say:
George Curran: "My background is in racing, and I went through several cruising boats that were dogs. I started selling Allied boats and delivering them from the factory, and I just fell in love with the way the boat sailed, especially in heavy air. I can trim it up, and it's very easy to sail by myself. Frankly, of all the boats I've ever sailed, it's the only cruiser that feels like enough of a racer for me. I plan to hold on to my Seawind."
Oscar Anderson: "I've sailed my Seawind for two-and-a-half years through the Bahamas, through the Antilles, South America, and west through the Panama Canal out to Tahiti. Before this I used to charter boats in the Bahamas. That's where I first saw the Seawind. I really liked the lines from a distance, and once I got a closer look I also liked the way the hull was constructed and the full keel. Needless to say, we got a Seawind. The boat gives us a lot of flexibility in the islands -- you can sail right up a beach somewhere and dry out with the tide if you want to. The only thing I'd have is another Allied."
Judy Anderson: "I've never been on another 32 ft. boat that has the storage that the Seawind has. Even with a lot of people aboard (and we've had plenty) we always find that there's plenty of room."
Gene Rice: "One of the reasons we like our Seawind so much is that we feel it looks like what a boat really should look like. Just a few weeks ago in St. Petersburg, a boat approached ours from the stern and the people aboard said they had followed us all the way from the city pier just to find out what make she was."
Joe Walsh: "I like the boat because it's sturdy, but it still oes! The performance is really good for the sturdy boat that she is." Joe's wife Dot mentioned that she is somewhat of a hesitant sailor, yet she feels very secure in their Seawind.)
Talbot Adamson: "I'm really impressed with the seaworthy construction of the boat. It's really a strong boat. This summer I drilled a through-hull fitting to put a head in and . . . I just kept drilling. When the plug finally fell out, I measured it 20 and it was 1 1/8-inches thick. I don't know how many layers of fiberglass that is, but Brax [Freeman] is still making it that thick. This hull is a hell of a hull. It's really a strong boat. I have total confidence in it. If the wind's up to 40 it doesn't bother me a bit. And what's more, many people up in Maine who don't see many Seawinds often say it's the best looking boat in the harbor."}par
After questions, answers, and comments with Tom Gillmer, Brax Freeman brought the group up to date on all the changes and modifications that are currently being made in Allied boats. A slide show gave everyone a close look at the interior and exterior of new Allied boats, of the boats under sail, and of the craftsmen at work in the Allied plant.
More slides followed. This time the photographs featured various Seawind owners sailing, working, vacationing, or just plain enjoying their boats.
The next day, several of us were able to board other Seawinds and see just what kind of customizingtheir owners had done. That's because several members sailed to Annapolis and docked in the friendly waters of Clements Creek, not far from Lamar Neville's home. Tt was a real treat to visit other boats. Joe and Dot Walsh gave us quite a tour and showed what they've done to make their Seawind II #6, RESOLUTE, such a cozy and convenient home away from home. They've lived aboard for some time now but don't seem to have given up many luxuries. As an example, they are thoroughly enjoying their recently installed Adler-Barbour refrigeration unit. (For more information on the Walsh's experiences see page 9 of this newsletter.) Lamar Neville also pointed out the many modifications he has made to his boat, WINDSONG, and demonstrated his nautical ability by sailing (no motoring, mind you) into Annapolis harbor on one of the busiest days of the year. It was quite an experience!
All in all, the weekend was thoroughly enjoyable. Aside from some occasional inclement weather, the Annapolis boat show was a great success. And the annual SOA meeting was a great success too. There was a lot of valuable information shared, and a general good time for all. Hopefully, we'll all have similar luck again next year and succeed in rounding up even more Seawind owners to share in the fun.
LATEST FROM THE FACTORY
It's hard to believe, but the Seawind just keeps getting better! SOA members who attended the annual meeting heard Allied president Brax Freeman explain in detail the many improvements that are now being built into every Seawind at the factory in Catskill, NY.
As Brax is quick to point out, the improvements are not just cosmetic. Yes, the new Seawind looks even more beautiful inside and out. But her beauty is more than skin deep. Modifications have been and continue to be made in an attempt to enhance the boat in every important area:
-- sailing ability (example: roller-bearing travellers)
-- strength (example: new hull-deck bonding) -
-- safety (example: all thru-hulls secured with stainless steel bolts and back-up plates)
-- exterior appearance (examples: more teak trim, bronze opening ports, painted spars)
-- creature comforts (examples: more comfortable upholstery, more drawers, more storage)
-- common sense (example: the engine is painted white -- so oil leaks, if they occur, are easy to see)
For your interest and enlightenment, actual factory drawings of recent modifications (courtesy of Brax Freeman at Allied) are reproduced in this issue. Also, included with this issue are recent literature sheets on the Seawind II and Princess 36. Both sheets feature full descriptions along with photographs showing the interiors. Perhaps these will give you some ideas on modifying or improving your Seawind!
We've had several new members join the Seawind Owners Association in recent months. We're happy to have them with us and look forward to hearing about their experiences with their Seawinds.
John Allen, 6056 W. Valleyview Ct., Mentor, OH 44060, NORTHERN LIGHT, Cleveland, Ohio. (John's Seawind II was recently completed in Catskill.) #121.
Martin Flaherty, 604 N. Emerson St., Arlington, VA 22203. (Marty's Seawind II is currently being built.)
Gretchen Gates (Allen), 4143 51st Avenue South, St. Petersburg, FL 33733, ESTRELLITA, SW II #37. (Gretchen is a USCG licensed captain and specializes in charters, deliveries, and sailing instruction. She's raced extensively during the short time she's owned ESTRELLITA, and is interested in hearing suggestions from others who are racing their Seawinds.)
H.W. Gebhardt (Doris), 46 Cowper Avenue, Kensington, CA 94707, WINDSPIEL, SW II #107, Berkley, California. (The Gebhardts are anxious to hear how other owners have made their boats even more enjoyable.
Evans Hughes (Kimberly), 607 Fontaine Street, Alexandria, VA 22302, MOLLYMAWK, SW II #114, Annapolis, MD. (The Hughes are especially interested in hearing from cruising couples and learning more about modifying their Seawind.)
Charles H. Jacobs (Claire), P.O. Box 1305, Weston, CT 06883, HAFA DAl, SW II #66, Westport, CT. (The Jacobs want to learn more about individual ideas on improvements and cabin layouts.)
Paul McMahon, Hamburg Road, Old Lyme, CT 06371, FIDDLER, SW I #155.
Michael Mertz, 5654 N. Campbell Avenue, Chicago, IL 60659, ANNIE, SW II #120. (Mike would like to hear "all and everything" to do with cruising.)
Ralph Zepp (Betsy), 215 Seminole Street, Mobile, AL 36606, WINDWARD, SW II #24, Mobile, AL. (The Zepps asked for information on cruising, alterations and modifications, and would like to know how the cutter rig has worked out for owners who have one.)
INFORMATION EXCHANGE . . . SEAWIND OWNERS SHARE IDEAS ON EQUIPPING, MODIFYING, AND SAILING THEIR BOATS.
Joe and Dot Walsh have been living aboard RESOLUTE, Seawind II #6, for about 20 months now and have a wealth of information to share about their experiences. Portions of three separate letters are reprinted for you here:
We sold out in New York, moved aboard in June 1979, and departed Long Island Sound in September. This was our first trip on the Intracoastal Waterway and we found it a bit boring below Virginia. Glad to get out on the ocean at times to relax. Arrived in Florida on December 6, then crossed Lake Okeechobee, thru the Keys, up to Ft. Lauderdale, and over to the Abacos for a month. Following is a description of some of the modifications we've made to RESOLUTE.
First, I strongly recommend the two day instruction at the Westerbeke plant. There is much to know about the engine that is not in the book.
Secondly, our mizzen mast had much vibration when anchored in a breeze. Setting up shrouds only depressed the deck in cockpit. The wooden arch over the engine did not touch the cockpit deck overhead. Tom Gillmer said that it should be supporting and that the plates on the hull should be at least 12 square inches. I cut out the original, epoxied 2-inch-thick wood plates, 4 inches by 4 inches onto the hull, made new arch of 2 x 4 using clips and bolts so the verticals can be removed for access to engine, etc., and shimmed under the mast. As a result, the vibration is much reduced.
The 130% genoa is on a Schaeffer roller furling with a double purchase halyard. The tang for the bitter end of the halyard must be about 4 inches (maybe only 3 inches) from the top of the mast tube or the swivel keeper will bind on the forestay. Schaefer says ii inches but doesn't allow for the masthead fitting.
I have a working jib that doesn't interfere with the jenny. I cut through the bowsprit, put a tang on the stem, and put a tang on the mainmast 11 inches below the head for a wire stay and halyard block. The lower end of the stay has a 4-part block and snap shackle. Attached to the stanchion by shrouds, it's quick to rig when using a genny. To really tension it up, I added a #lOH Barient on a bracket at deck edge ahead of the first stanchion. This has been handy for winching off and hoisting anchor. CAUTION: Tom Gillmer doesn't like the unbalanced load in the mast. He called it an "uncalculated risk." Saw a SW II with side-by-side head stays, RF on one, other for any jib.
We put a LectraSan in the locker behind the head. Cut out the existing shelf and put in new one 3 inches lower to improve the access. We also put in Raritan's Y valve and T'd the LS output to the existing overboard seacock. This works fine. Added third battery on a shelf over existing batteries. Consequently I had to remove a supporting strut to check the water but that's minor to all the other stuff we must pull out of the cockput locker. If it were not for the TV, we probably would not need the extra battery.
Had the drinking water pump motor burn out when we left the boat for a few hours. Don't know why it wanted to run because there was plenty of water and no leaks. Apparently it burned out because it was protected by a 30A circuit breaker although the specs call for a 10A slow-blow.
We're using a First Mate autopilot that was made especially for us; the actuator arm must be inclined to match the tilt of the wheel and the follow-up cable (string) must be wound for starboard installation. Actually you can do both of these yourself as long as they instruct you by phone. The bracket on the wheel must be bent to prevent interference with the case. Also the slop in the rack and pinion should be adjusted out. It has failed twice but we still feel it is worthwhile. It makes motoring bearable, and what's more it has handled following seas.
Deck scuppers: the hoses leading to the transom discharge were always in the way and full of water. So I cut them short and T'd them into P/S cockpit scupper hoses (above static WL). This has worked out well.
Main boom: used an 18-inch black rubber strap with big hooks on ends (available at any auto parts store) around mizzen mast and hooked to boom bale. This is a great way to keep the boom from swinging when it's not in use.
Engine: Swung the dipstick forward per Westerbeke instructions; this is a big help. I have a very slight oil leak at the back end, high; factory says it's due to crankcase pressure and can be cured by a kit. A new installation in a Gale Force has kit installed free from Westerbeke. We have Paragon SAO 1.5 reduction; at 500 hours found oil thrown from aft side of the shaft flex coupling. Backed off coupling from trans and found the nut (ref no. 77 in green parts list book) was loose but could not back off because of the tab washer. There is only about a 3-inch space to work in without removing the flex coupling. (Straighten tab, take up on nut using 1 3/8-inch socket with a pipe wrench, bend tab again.) I checked shaft alignment and made small adjustment to forward engine mounts and all is fine now. I put a sheet metal shield over the engine mount because the seawater pump leaks.
Stern Ladder: Got a good one from Stainless Rails, Atlantic Highlands, NJ. There was a $20 extra charge for special order to minimize interference with the mizzen. Hope he still has dimensions, but here's a sketch:
DOES NOT PROTRUDE A: 6" PLATE ANGLE SO
ABOVE STERN RAIL. STANDOFF IS HORIZONTAL.
MINIMUM PROTRUSION B: 18" -- GET LONGER, CUT
BEYOND STERN. TO FIT CURVE.
2 RUNGS IN WATER, C: 25"
ONE AT WATER LINE. D: 22"
HINGE PORTION OF
LADDER ATTACHES TO
CUP ON RAIL.
Awnings: made from weblon for foredeck, main boom, and cockpit. Our mizzen boom is fixed to the mast 6.5ft. up. Put sockets on the stern rail. Two aluminum posts are pinned to transverse pole for easy installation all the time. Stowing the mizzen is awkward, so swing the boom way outboard using a preventer against the sheet. Can stand under this, but my head touches.
To store awnings and poles we secured on the cabin top, P/S, 4-inch diameter PVC sewer pipe. The light gray with white caps matches our deck. Use the light weight stuff since it won't break when stepped on. Run them from inboard the dorades to alongside the seahood. The idea is from Moeller's Living Aboard.
RESOLUTE (ex-TACIT) has a pilot berth on the starboard with a slide-out settee under and to port is a settee with a swing-up back making the 6th berth. Both settees were uncomfortable for lounging. Since we are live aboards, the good pilot berth is all storage: books, charts, files, radio, TV. I modified the port side as shown in the sketch on the next page. Dorothy calls it our sunken living room but I prefer the term depressed lounge. It works well. With my lack of expertise, it was measure thrice and still cut twice.
We added a utility circuit with an external receptacle for the autopilot, spotlight, engine room lights, reading lights on port side, and fan in galley (and it's movable to foot of V-berth area.)
We're sticking to an alcohol stove although propane may become necessary as we travel. But we are using much less alcohol since we added the Forespar minigalley.
A - Molding to cover screw holes from settee back.
B - Piece of settee back hinged to bulkhead. Strap up to sleep.
C - Piece of settee back on hooks. Sits on rails G, to make full settee for sleeping or dining. Cocktail table drops down.
D - Oval access holes, squared and fitted with plywood doors, with mahogany edge-flange. Covered with fabric from back.
E - Original drawer.
F - Settee seat cutout. Add two bulkheads and bilevel foot-well to fit hull.
G - Wooden rails.
H - Carpet on hull -- (got lazy).
We've added a second deck pipe and bow roller, as well as a 20-gallon rubber tank under the V berth. Still haven't found or fixed the only leak: rain and sea water run along the portside hull-deck joint and drip into the locker behind the stove.
In a later letter, Joe and Dot wrote to say they had some comments on the August 1980 newsletter. Here's what they had to say:
1. Gilimer said to set up the triatic "at the correct length." Is that no tension, moderate tension, or a lot of tension?
2. We have a 130% genoa on Schaefer roller furling and think it is great. We also have a 135 sq. ft. jib that hanks onto a removable stay which runs from just below the masthead to the stem. Tried using this jib as a mizzen staysail once but felt it overloaded the rig. Have just added a wire topping lift on the mizzen with a 4-part tackle so it can be used as a running backstay. I wonder if it will be satisfactory? We used it yesterday coming down the Jersey coast indicating 7 knots and it was not too difficult to set up.
3. Comments regarding CIGI notes: If the reefing cheekblock has some piece to which you can attach the bitter end of the reef line, this tends to balance the load in the cheekblock attachment.
We use a simple awning on the foredeck to keep the sun off and the rain out of the hatch. The awning runs from the pulpit to the mast and hooks onto the lifelines.
Our mizzen boom is fixed to the mast 6 feet above the deck, so I do not have to duck under it. I made an awning that can be up while the mizzen is in use. I felt that a Bimini top frame would get in the way of all the strings so this awning uses stanchions to the stern rail plus a pole forward of the mast, attached to the shrouds.
Oil pressure transducer: get a piece of rubber hos with proper fittings and remount the transducer on a bulkhead. The signal wire must be lengthened and a ground wire must be attached to the transducer case.
They also had an interesting story to relay about bilge pumps!
On RESOLUTE we have 2 electric bilge pumps plus a Gusher 10. One of the HiCaps is strictly for the bilge and exhausts through the
transom. The other HiCap is original equipment connected by a Yvalve to the bilge or galley sink drain. (The original pump was connected to the bilge or shower drain. We now let the shower drain by gravity into the bilge -- this works better. The pump is now used for the galley sink, the bottom of which is half below sealevel.) It is T'd into a cockput drain line below the waterline but through a vented loop. Recently we found that the HiCap bilge pump would run but not pump. There was some water in the bilge so I went to pump it out with the Gusher. It did not pump either! So I switched the Y valve and pumped dry with the original pump. Found that the Gusher had a sliver of wood wedged in the exhaust flapper valve. Found that the HiCap had a strip of plastic trapped in the impeller. Good, now we have 3 pumps again! Dorothy looked in the bilge and asked, "Where did all this water come from? " It was up to the drip pan! So I flipped on the 2 electrics and manned the Gusher. When the water was out she said she could hear water running. Sure enough! The original bilge pump was siphoning back into the boat despite the vented loop. The vent was clogged with corrosion. I had put that vented loop on because a couple of years ago I had found that pump siphoning. Just think of the irony! Three bilge pumps, 2 inoperable, and the other sinking the boat! Are you sure redundancy is good?
A major problem: With 995 hours recorded on the engine, we developed a grinding noise in reverse. At 1020 hours, the reverse gear locked up. We had no reverse and no neutral. Dodson's Boatyard in Stonington, CT cut away the bulkhead under the sink and pulled out the engine. I drove to Marblehead to get a replacement Paragon manual transmission, retaining my 1.5 to 1 reduction gear. Total cost: $809. A pinion in the reverse planetary had broken.
An interesting observation: in the many harbors we have visited so far we ve seen more Allied boats than any other make -- except Morgans in Florida and except in harbors where there is a dealer in another stecific make boat.
A few members have written to say they're interested in buying or selling Seawinds. Here are the details:
Seawind II Ketch #65, MAI NU TOI -- Oscar Anderson sailed his Seawind extensively in Tahiti but is now considering a larger boat. Anyone interested in purchasing a mint condition Seawind that's ready to cruise the unspoiled islands of Tahiti should contact Oscar Anderson at 402 E. Moses, Cushing, Oklahoma 74023.
1978 Seawind II Cutter #81, PIDGEON -- Your Seawind Words editor is interested in having a new Seawind built. That's the reason for this notice. The boat has been lightly used, sailed only in fresh water, and maintained in bristol condition. It features custom dodger by Island Nautical, self-tailing Lewmar winches, Shore Sails (main, staysail, and jib top), a 150% genoa and cruising spinnaker by Sails U.S.A., S.R. Mariner depth sounder, Delta knotmeter, knot log and much more. The boat is presently lying in Catskill, NY at the Allied factory. Price:
$55,000. For more information contact Vern luppa, 120 Elmore Road, Rochester, NY 14618, or call (716) 473-8277 (H) or (716) 244-6340 (O)
Seawind I Ketch #90, CARA -- Julie Herrick has decided to sell her Seawind in order to buy a bigger boat and live aboard full time. In excellent condition, CARA has wheel steering, a 30 H.P. Gray engine, and has had plenty of tender loving care during the two summers Julie lived aboard in New Rochelle. Anyone interested should write Julie at 48 W. 69th St., New York, NY 10023, or call (212) 920-6228 (O) , or (212) 877-4770 (H). Asking price $36,000.
1964 Seawind I Ketch, BENEVOLENT -- Sloan Wilson presently lives 45 miles away from any navigable water and he's so busy with work that he's forced to sell his Seawind. The boat is ketch rigged, with a tiller and 27 H.P. Palmer engine. For more information write Sloan Wilson, 789 Bonita Drive, Winter Park, FL 32789 or call (305) 644-1767. (Yes, this is the same Sloan Wilson who wrote The Man In The Gray Flannel Suit.)
Seawind - John Lison, 2381 Oakwood Avenue, Green Bay, Wisconsin 54301 is interested in buying a Seawind. His phone number is (414) 435-7915.
MOVING BOATS BY LAND -- by Milt Baker
From time to time there comes an occasion when, no matter how much you'd like to sail your Seawind from Point A to Point B, doing so just isn't feasible. So you're faced with these choices:
-- Leave her where she is.
-- Have her sailed to Point B by a friend or a professional delivery skipper (and crew).
-- Ship her by whatever means might be available.
Having moved recently from the Washington, D.C. area to St. Petersburg, FL, I was faced with just such a choice.
Leaving her where she was just wouldn't do. Particularly since I planned to live aboard for a couple of months until Judy could join me in Florida.
Having the boat sailed from the Chesapeake to Florida's west coast was altogether unattractive. The season (very early spring) was wrong, the timing uncertain, and the cost greater than shipping her overland.
So, although reluctantly, I arranged to have SOLUTION shipped by truck from Solomons Island, Maryland, to St. Petersburg, Florida. And, in spite of all my reservations, she arrived some 900+ miles later completely intact. No damage at all.
Can you expect the same kind of a move? If you're willing to take a few days to personally oversee the move, I'm convinced you can. The steps I followed were these:
1. Deal with an established trucking firm with experience at moving large yachts. Based on previous experience moving a 27-foot sloop from San Diego to the Chesapeake Bay, I'd learned that Boat Transit Inc. (BTI) was the largest of the national yacht movers. They move a majority of the California-built boats to the East Coast and points in between. They also move a significant number of boats from Florida to the West coast and points in between. More important to me, however, was the fact BTI had moved my previous boat with no damage.
While there are a number of other firms experienced at moving yachts, I can speak about BTI only. But I believe they're typical of large yacht moving firms.
First, it's important to remember that -- unless you're moving totally within the boundaries of one state -- your shipping rate will be governed by Federal guidelines. What this means is that no matter how many quotes you receive, they'll all be within a few dollars of one another because shippers will be charging you the maximum Uncle Sam will allow.
Second, understand that moving boats is something less than a science. There are no absolute right or wrong answers.
And, third, your personal supervision every step of the way will save you dollars and damages in the long run.
2. Make certain that your boat is ready in every respect to be shipped. She’ll be traveling down the highway at speeds she was never designed for, and the vibration factor will be significant. The following precautions are worthwhile:
-- Make certain that all heavy objects (such as anchors, tool kits, etc.) are padded so they won't chafe on the hull or other parts of the boat.
-- If it moves, tape it. This goes for everything from the padlock on your main companionway hatch to the globes on your kerosene lamp. If you don't secure it (duct tape works well), you can expect it to chafe or vibrate loose during the trip.
-- Invest in some cheap carpeting and, using a couple of rolls of duct tape, secure the rigging to the masts. Don't let the stainless steel wire touch the mast or you'll have an ugly scar from vibration and chafing. Aboard SOLUTION we used shag carpet as an anti-chafe material for the spars, taping a complete loop inside the rigging every 18 inches or so.
3. Personally supervise the loading of your boat onto the shipper's flatbedain . You'll be conservative, and the yard and driver will generally do a better job of loading if you're there to supervise. This isn't to say that you need to know a great deal about what you're doing. Common sense will go a long way in assessing whether the boat is properly loaded and whether she'll chafe during the trip.
-- Even if you have a cradle, it's generally better to pay the few dollars ($200 approximately) more to use the shipper's supports. That way, he's responsible if something breaks down. On the other hand, if you use your cradle and a strategically-placed bolt gives 'way, it's your responsibility.
4. Have your bottom work done at the shipping yard rather than the receiving yard. This will save you a blocking charge at the receiving yard, which means the boat can be taken directly from the shipper's flatbed to the water. It'll also give you an opportunity to wax your sides and make certain that the boat is ready in all respects before she's shipped.
5. Visit the receiving yard in advance, if possible and let the yard foreman or supervisor know exactly what you want done when the boat arrives. He'll be able to give you an estimate of the cost, though no doubt at the last minute you'll find something else you need done there. If it's not possible to visit the receiving yard, make your arrangements by telephone, with a letter of confirmation.
6. Be at the receiving yard when the boat arrives. This will enable you to inspect the boat for damage before you sign the shipper's papers accepting it (and pay the driver by cashier's check). It'll also enable you to provide explicit guidance to the yard, which always results in fewer misunderstandings about what work is required and performed. Finally, your presence will in many cases save a few hours of labor charges for two reasons: your own labor is not charged against you and you're there to see personally how many hours of labor are used.
If you're fortunate, you'll draw a driver like Lonnie Meyers, who hauled SOLUTION to Florida. A boater himself, Lonnie couldn't have been more careful hauling SOLUTION. And she arrived in the same shape she left in.
Lonnie didn't have a load from Florida to the West Coast when he arrived, so he offered to help me rig the boat and help sail her from the receiving yard to her new home. Altogether, I'd estimate that Lonnie gave me about 12 hours of free labor -- just because he enjoys being around boats and because he had nothing better to do after arriving in Florida.
Lonnie, a college graduate and a dropout (by choice) from the aerospace business in California, owns his own rig and works for BTI under contract. Basically, he reports, he receives 65 percent of the fee you and I pay and the company receives the remainder, less road permits (for the extra-wide load). From his 65 percent, Lonnie has to buy his own fuel -- which is significant when you consider that his rig gets only about six miles to the gallon.
With careful drivers like Lonnie, major damage is unlikely. Nevertheless, the shipper limits his liability to $50,000 unless you declare on the Bill of Lading that your yacht has a higher value. I claimed a higher value and it cost me nothing.
Of course, Lonnie and his colleagues would prefer to deliver your yacht with no damage. In some cases, particularly where negligence is involved, they're required to pay a sizable chunk of the deductible.
Most shippers will need about two weeks notice before your yacht is to be picked up. Even then, they may not make the pickup date. So try to be flexible. I was less flexible than I should have been when I scheduled my pickup for a Monday, expecting delivery nearly 1,000 miles away three days later. As it turned out, my driver was a day late on the pickup and the trip took a day longer than he expected due to permit problems. The result was that SOLUTION arrived in Florida on Friday at noon -- the worst possible time for a yard receiving a yacht.
Thanks to a super yard, a sympathetic foreman and yard crew, and, perhaps, some help from the front office, the boat was in the water by 2.p.m., her masts stepped by dinnertime, and she was ready to go within 24 hours. In Spite of the fact that I slipped and fell from the pier (completely sober too!), splitting my chin to the tune of eight stitches, Judy, Lonnie and I sailed SOLUTION away early Saturday afternoon.
0 The move, incidentally, cost me about $2,000 counting yard bills on each end. That works out to something over $2 a mile, which, in this day and age, isn't too bad. No doubt that as energy costs go higher, however, the price will go up. A final note: boat moves are not deductible as moving expenses; tax law provides for moving personal motor vehicles, household goods, and personal effects -- and the tax court has held that a yacht doesn't meet any of these criteria (sadly).
For the first few months in Florida, SOLUTION was my home. I've always told liveaboard friends that boats are meant for sailing, not living aboard. And living aboard -- pleasant as it was -- hasn't changed my opinion of that.
The problem with living aboard is twofold:
-- A boat should offer at least some escape to her owner. Living aboard you can't escape -- for your boat is you home and vice versa. And the only escape is getting underway. Which raises the second problem.
-- Getting underway requires a Herculean effort. Last time I got underway for a weekend, it took me about 90 minutes. On each end.
How, you ask, could it possibly take so long? Here's what I did:
-- Take down both awnings, roll and stow them.
-- Move my "portable" Norcold freezer from the boat to the dock box. (My battery capacity wouldn't support the freezer for a whole weekend.)
-- Buy ice and load the icebox.
-- Fill the water tank.
-- Check the oil, water, belts and transmission. Start engine and let it warm up.
-- Remove the sail covers, ready the jib and jibsheets, hook up halyards.
-- Stow normal liveaboard gear (hotplate, toaster oven, electrical cord, telephone and telephone cord.)
-- Remove mooring lines and get underway.
And, upon returning to port, it took me nearly 90 minutes to put everything back in place!
At this time I am happily ensconced in a waterfront condominium in St. Petersburg. And I'm convinced that the boat moving and living aboard have provided a worthwhile means to an end.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: ARTICLES & INPUTS NEEDED FOR FUTURE NEWSLETTERS
We hope you enjoyed this issue of your newsletter. The membership roster enclosed should help bring you up to date on who your fellow members are and where they sail their Seawinds. This year we've welcomed many new members, but remember, we're still counting on each and every one of you to write something to your editor. We're interested in hearing about your equipment, mod7fications, sail inventory, maintenance, sailing experiences, recipes . . . whatever you have to offer. So share your experiences and see them in the next issue.
-- Vern Iuppa, Editor