NEWSLETTER OF THE SEAWIND OWNERS ASSOCIATION * * * VOL. II, NO. II, AUGUST 1980
ALLIED IN THE NEWS
An interesting article on Allied Yachts was featured in the April 1, 1980 issue of Practical Sailor. We think it's well worth reading so it's reprinted for you here with Practical Sailor's blessing.
Can Phoenix Rise Another Time?
Boat builders go out of business with a regularity that barely exceeds the failure rate in other forms of business. Within the last year such firms as New Bombay Trading Company (Bombay Express, Clipper, Explorer and others) and Columbia Yachts have succumbed. Whenever we hear of another, we are curious if boat buyers are threatened with losing deposit money on unfinished boats to the firm's creditors. (None did, incidentally, from New Bombay or Columbia.)
That is why we did some poking around when we heard that Allied Yachts of Catskill, NY, had closed its doors in mid-January. Closing, reopening with new money and new management only to close, open and close again has set the theme at the boat building plant on the shores of the Hudson River. Altogether, Allied has been on the brink of permanently shutting down three times. The question has become how many times can the Phoenix rise from the ashes?
Allied has built boats since the early Sixties. Perhaps its best known boat has been the 30-foot Seawind (redesigned in 1975 as a 32-footer), one of which, Apogee, was the first fiberglass boat to make a circumnavigation. Others in the Allied line have included the Luders 33, the Seabreeze 35, and more recently the Princess 36 and the Mistress 39 -- in all, an impressive array of cruising boats.
During the on-again, off-again history of Allied, the quality of the boats has varied, gradually improving overall despite financial crises. There are no reports of structural deficiencies, only relatively minor faults such as leaking around ports and hatches, and so-so joinerwork, a result of inconsistent quality control. One spokesman familiar with the boats describes them as a "rugged, rough type of boat."
We have received a number of responses to The Practical Sailor's Sailboat Evaluation from owners of Allied boats, and all concur with favorable impressions of sound construction and cite only cosmetic and detailing flaws. There are no reports of difficulty dealing with the builder or warranty claims or routine questions.
In fact, if the management of the firm over the years had been as able as its designs, Allied might have moved to the forefront of the cruising boat market instead of being threatened today with liquidations. Instead, the company has been run by a series of people who made mistakes, mostly due to not being familiar with the special problems of building and marketing boats.}par
The latest was Stuart Miller, a New York lawyer who reportedly became involved with the company while having a Princess built. At the time of the closing, a Pedrick-designed 52-footer had been partially tooled with
the first competed boat to be Millerís personal yacht. Our repeated attempts to discuss the Allied situation with Miller got no further than his secretary, who was helpful but unable to answer all our queries.
The creditor who has stepped forth to find a solution to the latest closing is an agency of the State of New York, the Job Development Authority. JDA makes small business loans guaranteed by the state. During Allied's existence it has, as near as we can determine, made about a half million dollars in low interest loans to the builder.
At this writing late in February, the Authority had acquired Allied and is attempting to interest someone with money and expertise to reopen the facilities. JDA is not motivated by any particular regard for Allied's line of boats or for the marine market. It earnestly wants to keep a work force of upwards of 50 people employed. Allied has been the largest employer in the area. If unsuccessful at attracting money and management to reopen the plant, JDA can recoup its loan money by selling the tooling and equipment.
Insofar as we can determine, no boat buyer or dealer stands to lose money on unfinished boats or deposits. "No one is going to be hurt," one dealer spokesman close to the situation told us. Suppliers and former employees are owed money, but may recover at least a portion in arrangements with whoever can be found to take over Allied production and facilities.
The following article appeared as an "Update" in the June 15, 1980 issue of The Practical Sailor:
CSY, Allied Hang in There
In recent issues of The Practical Sailor we have run articles on both CSY Yachts (PS, April 15) and Allied Yachts (PS, April 1)
Almost coincidental with the publication of our article on OSY in which we noted that the firm, despite a high quality product, was having trouble, we received word that CSY President Jack Van Ost had approached creditors with alternative plans for weathering the storm. These two plans called for either repayment of $.75 on the dollar or eventual full repayment with Van Ost's highly successful CSY charter operations as credit. Meanwhile, boat building materials would be on a COD basis and the whole operation has undergone considerable reorganization.
After a grim period during the spring, the prognosis for CSY is good. The mainstay of the boat building firm remains the charter boat fleet, especially on lease-back sales. That part is healthy. The weakness, as in most of the marine industry, is in the sales of privately owned and sailed yachts.
Having failed three previous times, Allied Yachts in Catskill, New York, also attracted our attention and we have kept up on efforts to let the Phoenix rise yet another time from the ashes. To up-date on that situation, Allied reopened under interim management and has been "limping along" with limited production and is still for sale. Several offers have been received by the NY Job Development Authority, which, as creditor, had taken over the firm with the hope of reorganizing it under new management and keeping it in the town of Catskill for its employment capacity.
Working with JDA in that effort has been Brax Freeman who predicted that either a group he would put together or a third party would get the company going by mid-summer. Allied, since our April 1 article, has delivered two boats and accepted orders on others, the buyers being assured that they will get their money back if, for some reason, their boats are not built.
Freeman, who is a former yacht dealer, is aiming at upgrading the finish quality of the boats Allied builds; as he put it, "to build yachts, not boats." Allied has had a reputation for sound construction and mediocre detail work through much of its recent troubled history.
The plan, if Freeman has his way, is to have Allied "specialize" in building the 32-foot Seawind II and Princess 36 to a high production standard and to build the Mistress 39 on order. The boats are to be sold factory direct, saving the 15 percent dealer commission, an increasingly popular marketing technique for large boats and low volume builders.
In the case of both CSY and Allied we wish the firms well. There are a number of boat building firms whose slipshod management and/or product would never be missed were they to get their just desserts in the marketplace during these hard times. These two builders, though, are earning a break. And they have earned our applause for their forthrightness in discussing their plight.
LATEST FROM THE FACTORY
Things have been on the upswing at Allied since the previous article was published in June. Here's a recent news release and magazine ad which Allied forwarded for our information.
ALLIED YACHTS NOW BEING BUILT AND SOLD FACTORY-DIRECT
BY INTERNATIONAL CRUISING YACHTS, INC.
CATSKILL, NY -- Production of rugged cruising sailboats is back in full swing at Allied Yachts on the banks of the Hudson River in Catskill, NY.
Under the leadership of Brax Freeman, President of Allied Yachts by International Cruising Yachts, Inc., the company is building four of the most popular models ever offered by this well-respected manufacturer: the original Seawind 30, Seawind II 32, Princess 36, and Mistress 39.
Following an increasingly popular trend in the boat-building industry, Allied boats will now be sold on a factory-direct basis. According to Freeman, this approach will allow Allied to produce custom yachts with more "extras as standard" and an even higher degree of finish and detailing than ever before, while at the same time offering customers a savings of 15 to 20 percent by eliminating dealer commissions.
Allied first gained notoriety in the early sixties when Alan Eddy circumnavigated in his Seawind 30 "Apogee," the first fiberglass boat to do so. Since then several other Allied yachts have accomplished the same feat. The famous "Dove" was Allied built, as was Scott and Kitty Kuhner's Seawind "Bebinka."
Current boats coming off the line at the Allied plant carry a list of standard features "unheard of in the early days of fiberglass construction, and uncommon even today," says Freeman. As examples, he cites such standard items as bronze opening ports, Hood sails, full engine instrumentation, heavy-duty rub rail, and Awlgrip painted spars.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS WITH TOM GILLMER . . .
Seawind designer, Tom Gillmer, has kindly offered to answer guestions for the newsletter which relate to the design of the boats or to design problems. Send questions to the newsletter editor, and -- space permitting -- they'll be answered in the next newsletter.
Q. "In rigging the mizzen mast for the Seawind II, the manufacturer seems to have gone the cheap route rather than the best route. Wouldn't it be better to have a fully rigged mizzen mast with upper and lower shrouds and spreaders? And wouldn't this help prevent the mizzen mast shaking which a number of SW II owners have experienced? What about the triatic stay -- is there any way to do away with the triatic so the mizzen and main masts are independently stayed?"
A. You are probably right about the manufacturer, however it is my belief that the problem lies in the choice of the mast section and wall thickness other than specified originally. The solution is of course, now in the rigging. In a ketch rig there are two ways basically to design the staying. One, which I chose here, makes the mizzen a more or less integral part of the whole by tying the main and mizzen mast heads together. The other makes each mast independent, of course, and hence the additional staying including spreaders on the mizzen. I believe, in this particular design, like its predecessor Seawind 30, the mizzen is relatively small in its sail area--compared to the whole almost uniquely so. I think, therefore, it is better to be tied into the main and carry less and lighter staying. To get back to the vibration control I think that it can be corrected by adjusting the tension between the forward and after mizzen shroud. With the triatic set up at the correct length, set up hard on your aft mizzen shroud while backing off a bit on the forward one. OK?
Q. "The dirty transom problem is one we've noticed on a number of SW II's. Could this problem be solved by moving the exhaust outlet on the transom up six or seven inches so the exhaust would be thrown free of the boat rather than being pumped into the water below the waterline? (The exhaust outlet is above the LWL with the boat at rest, but the propeller bites into the water under power, pulling the stern of the boat down so the exhaust outlet is beneath the water.)"
A. Yes, it certainly is worth a try to move the exhaust outlet. It should be at least 8" - 10" above the waterline. Incidentally, the more power, i.e. throttle, the lower your transom will drop, not because the propeller is pulling it down but because when under power (not heeling) the faster you go the longer and deeper your self-generated wave becomes and the boat tends to settle on the slope of its own wave with second crest beginning at or under the stern.
INFORMATION EXCHANGE . . . SEAWIND OWNERS SHARE IDEAS ON EQUIPPING, MODIFYING AND SAILING THEIR BOATS
SAIL SELECTION by George Curran
George Curran who sails his Seawind II MERMAID, Hull #50, out of Annapolis, Maryland when he's not busy working at the Naval Academy Sailing Foundation, generously shared this advice on sail selection:
Those of you who have read Alan Eddy's little book "So you want to sail around the world" may recall that Alan recommended an inventory of 8 sails: main, mizzen, two identical working jibs (which also serve as twins downwind) , a #2 Genoa, storm jib, mizzen staysail, and drifter. This same inventory is applicable to the MK II Seawind for around-the-world cruising.
If I were attempting the same feat I would also want to install a second headstay an running backstays on the mizzen, and probably go with mast mounted twin poles which could be fabricated or purchased from Forespar or other manufacturers. I would also have all jibs hanked on the forestay.
How many of us will sail around the world? In fact,- how many will sail more than 4 to 7 days from the sight of land? For the majority of us who sail shorthanded along the coast or in protected waters and occasionally venture out on a to 7-day cruise offshore I believe the following inventory is adeguate;
1. Mainsail with 3 reefs. 1. Mainsail with 3 reefs.
2. 135% Genoa (heavy and well made -- about 2. Staysail (at least 6 oz. -- to hold up in a
6 oz. min.wt.) with luff tapes to be used on Hood storm.)
Sea Furl or other grooved headstay systems. 3. 135 to 150% Genoa (5 oz. min.) -- hanked
3. Mizzen with one reef. on or in grooved headstay systems.
4. Small Storm jib capable of hanking on around 4. Single luff Spinnaker.
the aluminum extrusion in event of emergency.
5. Single luff Spinnaker (e.g. Flasher).
What is my logic for these recommendations?
1. Sailing should be fun and as easy as possible. This is why after many years knocking them I am sold on the moderngroovedfurling systems. They must be properly installed and maintained -- otherwise forget it. The less expensive systems are worthless in my opinion because of high rates of failure generally binding at the head and poor sail performance because of sag in the luff.
2. I object to loading a boat with so much gear and sails that you can't turn around. If you want to keep the forepeak free of sailbags, reduce the sail inventory and/or select sails with smaller total size.
3. 1 find the mizzen staysail too restrictive to recommend in a basic inventory for general sailing.
4. I like the single luff spinnaker for reaching down wind in light to moderate air because this is the slowest point of sail -- especially in a Seawind. This sail is easy to fly -- requires no pole -- easy to stow --and looks great.
5. Any Genoa up to about 135% can be used on the grooved neadstay systems and can be rolled in and out providing a wide range of options. The sail must be strong and well made. Don't economize here -- remember this sail is doing the work of at least two.
6. Whenever using agroovedheadstay system some provision should be made to handle emergencies -- for example, a small storm jib.
7. Extra reefs on the mainsail are cheap insurance when the wind really blows.
I know the above inventory and recommendation of the grooved roller furling systems is contrary to much of what has been written on heavy weather sailing and safety at sea. I must repeat once again this is for the 90%+ sailors who purchase Seawinds and sail shorthanded under the conditions stated in the beginning of this article. I would like to add that if you would like to do a little club racing or just maximize speed performance from your Seawind, I would recommend a 170% 5 oz. Genoa, adjustable ball bearing mainsheet traveler and inside jib tracks for sails less than 100% of the foretriangle.
ADVICE FROM STEM TO STERN
Gerald Smith of 4765 Regents Walk, Shorewood, Minnesota 55331, shares a wealth of information about his Seawind II GIGI, Hull #29 which he sails in the Caribbean.
Ground Tackle -- The working anchor is a 25 pound CQR on 240' of 5/16"chain. I found that the original length of 300' would not fall into the chain locker. Its tendency to pyramid or stack when raising the anchor in calm water would cause the windlass to jam itself severely as soon as the chain peaked against the bottom of the hawse pipe. Frequently, when letting go the anchor, a turned link would jam, making for a most awkward situation (anchor over the side but not hooked, with no alternative but to hand-over-hand retrieve the weight). After shortening to 240í, we now have alleviated the problem considerably, but still will have an occasional jam. I would suggest that anyone outfitting, and preferring chain, stay with 1/4" and not too much over 200', if they want totally trouble-free operation. The storm anchor, Danforth's 20H, is also carried on the bow. This carries a lead chain of 30' of 5/16", attached to 300' of 5/8" nylon rope. This rope is flaked along the port gunnel, tied to stanchion bases with quick release stops. Its greatest task to date has been to hold GIGI in winds gusting to 70 knots, mud bottom and something that I would approximate as 10 to 1 scope. Although the rope was catgut tight, the boat stayed in place. Seas were not a factor since we were in fairly close to shore, waves running not more than one or two feet.
Jib Sheet Leads -- Modifications may have been made in later hull numbers, (mine is #29) but the leads as originally designed were fine for the Genoa, but did not have track far enough forward to permit proper setting of a working jib. Consequently, I have installed a padeye/ snatchblock further forward on the toe rail, and an inboard track section which allows me to pull the working jib well in when close on the wind.
Originally, I utilized snap shackles for tieing to the jibsail clew. think this is a mistake, and I'm now going back to bowlines. Aside from the weight and the danger of getting conked by standing in the wrong place, coming about in heavy winds or furling the jib during high winds can bring about some surprises. One dark night with seas running to 25' and winds to 40 knots, both snap shackles shook themselves free simultaneously while coming about to heave-to under jib and reefed mizzen. Although relieved to see that the clew hadn't been ripped out, it still was exciting to go forward and capture the beast.
Roller Furlingin -- Mine is the Stern's Stream Stay, with two grooves, and has always worked beautifully. I did rig with one size oversize, i.e., equivalent to a 5/16 stainless steel forestay; we still carry the original as a spare.
Mast Steps -- Last year we installed mast steps from boom to the very tip top, with double rungs at the spreader level and 5' below the mast head. This is quite inexpensive and a super addition. Those who have been in the British Virgins over the past 10 years have seen' it go from one or four boats per anchorage to as many as 240 on a New Year's Eve at Bitter End, Virgin Gorda. Even Anegada gets a sizeable fleet during holidays, and perhaps as many as 20 during ordinary times. The key is to go where the bareboat charters cannot. This means through the reefs and around the shallows. High noon and mast steps make this quite straightforward. One mid-week day we counted 87 boats at the east end of North Sound, Virgin Gorda, and were the only boat for two successive days right around the bend in South Sound, Virgin Gorda. The high perch, a first mate's steady hand on the wheel, a Fathometer than can tell you there's only six inches under the keel, and 20 minutes of white knuckles give you solitude that's hard to come by any other way, when you'd like a day or two of it to yourself.
Slab Reefing (Jiffy Reefing)-- This is the only way to fly. GIGI has triple reef points, and while we've used the storm jib and reefed mizzen, I've never yet hoisted the trisail. The problem is that the cheekblocks aren't egual to the load. I've pulled the first reef point cheekblock out twice now, and I'm still looking for an adeguate sea-going solution. I said this in my earlier input to Milt Baker; I1d never go to sea without a good boom crutch. I believe they are more important for safety than lifelines.
Wind Scoop -- The sail maker on Tortola came up with a wind scoop that actually works in anything but the flattest of wind driven rain. Here a picture would be worth a thousand words, but perhaps you can get a mental image. After raising the forward hatch so it stands vertically, a 'box" of acrylan (sail cover type) cloth is lowered over the upright hatch and the opening, and tied to small eyes on all four corners. Like the bill of a cap, a fairly long "umbrella" section goes forward to be tied to the lifelines. Laying to anchor, the wind must drive the rain almost at a 750 angle from the vertical in order to push rain in. Even though the scoop is fairly low, it sure beats no air at all on a hot, wet night.
Winches -- Self-tailing on the primaries is the only way to go. Barient 23's are just a bit small. Of course, 28's would be far too large. I think something ideal would be in between.
We like our reel halyard on the main mast. If we had it to do over, we'd save the money and not have reel halyard on the mizzen.
It pays to disassemble and relubricate all winches every year.
Self Steering -- The Hydrovane has worked fine. A reef point was installed that allows us to cock the boomkin so that it will clear the vane when you're sailing fairly close. This works, but I'm not so sure the answer wouldn't be in raising the boomkin 24 or so inches. The boat balances so well the way it is, particularly under jenny, that I hate to contemplate this action. I'd be interested in hearing whether or not anyone else has taken that apprnach to resolve the self steering vane problem. A possible byproduct would be shade underway, but we've not yet figured out how to do anything but sit in the sun. When it gets too bad we strike the mizzen and put an awning over the top. This still isn't very satisfactory; it looks awkward and still is geared for the sitting position only.
Miscellaneous -- We have a 12H stern anchor, mounted on a bracket, stern pulpit, with 150' of 1/2" nylon. This is a very adequate hook for fair weather. We use it regularly; I think one of the most beautiful highlights to date is putting the bow within literally 5' of the water's edge between the pitons of St. Lucia. I have a wall mural (4' by 5') of the GIGIs20 tied to a coconut tree just like the front cover of Donald Street's book. She really looks good sitting there with a stalk of bananas hanging from the boom crutch.
You can't sail without a dodger.
Weather cloths, full around the stern pulpit and forward to the full length of the cockpit, help when it's windy and are essential for cockpit bathing in anchorages. We carry a translucent five gallon jug, and sunshower. A few buckets of seawater, followed with a one quart rinse (one pint when at sea) really makes you feel civilized.
If you ever store your boat for more than three months in the islands or tropics, be sure to work a high grade penetrating and lubricating oil well into the idle cutoff cable. Follow this with placing very high viscosity and heat resistant globs of grease all around the shank, so moisture cannot enter. Otherwise, you'll come back and find it a single piece. This is experience speaking.
The electric transducer oil pressure lash-up has worked for me one year at a time. The Westerbeke people tell me to go to tubing and the old fashioned oil pressure gauge. Does anyone know of a solution less drastic?
I've had so much trouble with the compass light because of the contact corrosion of the plug that goes through the cockpit sole, that I've switched to solid cable (no plugs) . We've fabricated a teak cover that keeps this from being stepped on or abused.
Cockpit instruments include a Data Marine 200 depth sounder, Signet wind point and wind speed, and Kenyon log and speedo. All have worked admirably. The wind speed unit has been turning in the trade winds or hither and yon for four years now and still seems indistinguishable from new.
We had a mizzen staysail and the Britan down-wind system. The staysail has been up twice (just to say we did) and the Britan system with twin down-winds has been rigged but a single time. I'm sure if we left the Panama Canal for the Marguesas and then on to Tahiti, they'd be used, but they are so much trouble that they just follow us around for a free ride. If I had it to do again, I'd adopt one of the simpler down-wind arrangements. Maybe some day when I'm following the wind for 10 consecutive days I'll speak more indb toward this investment. The mizzen staysail really looks beautiful ailU in the guiet winds of the Chesapeake, seemed to make sense.
Bow Tank -- We originally had Wright Allied use the bow space for 24 gallons of extra water. The tank was plastic and did fine until the bow met its first wave. It's been fiberglass reinforced three times now, each time with two layers of roving. The last time I think we made it six days before it flexed, popped, and leaked. Once again, I would suggest that anyone who wants water over and above the main tank in the keel, specify stainless steel for the bow tanks or at least heavy gauge aluminum. Further, the tank should be extremely well seated so as to avoid flexing.
Chain Locker -- I've run a 1/2" hose from the aft lower end of the chain locker to underneath the head, so that water finds its way to the shower sump. Since doing this, the under V-berth storage is the dryest part of the vessel.
Stowage -- Stowage is something everyone wants a lot of, and us too. We have four drawers in the V-berth area. I've cut oval access holes so that the below drawer space is not wasted. Here's where we keep spare hose clamps, turnbuckles, nuts, bolts, screws, epoxy -- things you only need on occasion. Behind the drawers are plywood dividers and additional hatches cut for access so that no space is wasted.
Below the lavatory and below the galley sink, are shelves appropriate to our particular stowage preferences, made from teak strips 2" wide by 3/16" thick. This allows any moisture that's collected to drain rather than puddle on solid shelving.
In the main cabin, similar fore and aft plywood dividers are behind drawers, with hatches cut for access. This means that even though we have a total of five drawers in the main cabin, beneath the settees, and four beneath the V-berth, not one cubic inch of stowage is lost. Beneath the drawers in the main cabin are stowed such things as chafing gear, threaded stainless steel rod, hacksaw and blades, etc. so that all stowage is well used. We've even cut an oblong hatch under the kerosene stove so that the small area or volume is not lost. Here we keep such things as chore boys, extra can opener, lamp wicks, spare burner, and a myriad of other miscellaneous spare parts used irregularly.
On the aft bulkhead of the head, in the small corner adjacent to the door leading into the main cabin, is a vertical strip with six small shelves, each having a nest for a one quart plastic bottle. One bottle is shampoo, another Solarcaine, another suntan lotion, etc. This gives us a total of five quarts of whatever fluid we'd like, with no apparent space lost to the boat whatsoever.
Additional stowage includes a tray with side walls built under the aft starboard quarter, for various greases, varnish, paint, etc. Stringers are run over the rack and pinion steering gear to support a tray, such that the lazarette access gives immediate reach to winch handles, sailing gloves, sheath knife, cowl, plates, etc. We have rigged a canvas "hammock" over the batteries to hold large but light things like an extra fender, life preservers, dinghy bailer, etc. Stowage shelves and access panels have been built under both gunnels. Into these have been placed such things as bilge pump repair kits, spare air filters for the engine, spare V-belts, gasketing materials, fiberglass cloth, etc. -- again things that you may never use, but someday may need. All in all, I think there are something like $3,500 worth of spares scattered here and there and all of them are stowed in places which.the new boat owner might call "waste space. My pOint is a simple one. Once you decide you're going to use all the space, a Skilsaw, some fiberglass tape and some epoxy will make that space useable and productive.
Bilge Pumps -- I believe in good quality and an adequate number of bilge pumps. Between Bermuda and the Virgin Islands, the 10-gallon per minute Par diaphragm pump failed and the manual Whale Gusher split a gasket, rendering it near non-effective. A wave rolling from behind put about 100 gallons of water over the one washboard that was in place (should have had them all in place) so the remaining two Wilcox-Crittendens were welcomed. As it concerns pumps, there is the manual Wtiale IS gallons per minute, plus the Par diaphragm electric 10 gallons per minute, plus three Wilcox high capacity rotary bilge pumps. One ordinarily serves as the source for the anchor chain wash down at the bow but can be switched via Y-valve to the bilge. A second serves to drain the galley sink at all angles of heel; this also can be switched to the bilge. The third is the standard equipment with which the boat was originally supplied. The Par high capacity pump is tied to an automatic float switch.
Galley -- Kerosene stoves are great if you have white kerosene. As soon as it starts to turn yellow, we've experienced burner problems.
Our original Galley Maid rusted in many places. A totally stainless steel unit represents good economy.
An item we have found as valuable as the boom crutch and dodger is the sea-swing stove. Ours is with the kerosene lower unit and we have found it useable in all but the very roughest of going. We have double mounting brackets so that it can mount or han directly over the gimbaled kerosene stove in the galley or be positioned forward of that partition so as to hang over the port settee. This makes for more counter room when needed and it can be an extra burner for coffee or whatever.
Plates, cups, utensils and alcohol bottle storage are in a unit above the sink and ice box.
Refrigeration -- We have partitioned the ice box into freezer below and 400 refrigerator above. We've had no problems either with the engine driven system or the 110 volt system other than rust of the 110 volt unit. This unit is mounted on a shelf directly over the hot water tank. The big problem has been rust of this unit. If I were going to install again, I would take the trouble to strip the original paint and recoat with epoxy, particularly the mounting frame.
110 Volt 500 Watt Inverter -- We have found this to be a very valuable accessory. Aside from helping the wife with hair drying (500 watt unit) and using a seal-a-meal device for flour, sugar, pancake mix, etc., it is also a good device for preventing rust of ordinary tools. A bit of dessicant and a seal-a-meal bag keeps them going a long way.
Miscellaneous-Interior -- I originally mounted our RDF unit on the counter space immediately adjacent to the wet locker (or the chart table for those who do not have the wet locker version) . We have found that this renders the RDF unuseable because of the proximity Df electrical wiring. One of the next tasks is to move it to a location relatively free of electro-magnetic distortion.
The 1,000 foot-Fathometer mounted in the cabin is particularly useful in making landfalls. A second RDF plus the 1,000-foot Fathometer gave us confidence in approaching the Virgin Islands from the north, despite the existence of Anegada. The RDF bearing to the Roaci Town radio signal, plus the notification to us that we had reached the shelf gave us a pinpoint position despite constant sky cover the previous three days. Our landfall was accompanied (a night landfall) with squalls and rain, and it was this Fathometer that gave us confidence that we were not moving too far or too fast while hove-to the entire night. I definitely recommend two depth sounding units, one visible from the cockpit and one that has the reach to at least 1,000 feet.
Our 8-band Panasonic has worked well for the entire four years we have had our boat. With its toroid antenna it serves quite well for WWV and as a third radio direction finding unit. As a matter of fact, the small Nova broadcast band receiver with rotatable antenna has proved to be the most reliable and most accurate, and I find we use it even in preference to the Benmar. Its antenna is very sharp as it concerns the null and the weight and price are certainly right (less than $100.)
It seemed that there was a lot of wasted space under the battery shelf. Using a saber saw, I have cut an oval access from the engine compartment, and this space very generously affords me room for up to 12 quarts of oil, plus spare engine oil filters.
We have removed the permanent dining table and fashioned a wall storage unit in its place. Two vertical sail tracks mount on the bulkhead, with cars sliding up and down to position the end at the appropriate height when the table is in use. A fold-down leg supports the aft end. A leaf makes it essentially the same size as the original. The extension berths can be expanded when the table is in its use position.
I have mounted shallow trays under both the starboard and port locker covers. These are used for miscellaneous nuts, bolts, tools, tape, etc.
Wishes and Gripes -- I wish we had specified a teak bowsprit.
The stuffing box is almost impossible to reach. I wish someone would make a one-handed tool that could unlock and take up on this device. When it comes time to put in some new flax, we'll have to make sure it's sitting high and dry, and hire a couple of small pygmies with four- foot-long arms.
I wish we had at least 90 gallons of water and 60 gallons of fuel. There are always weightproblems, but we wind up carrying it in jerry cans anyway and there isn't anything that says you can't go with half tanks when you're cruising local waters. Most aircraft are designed so tney can have full fuel with light load or partial fuel with heavy load. I wish I had that option on GIGI.
But when all is said and done . . . I'm still pleased with the purchase of a Seawind II!
David Dalziel of 624 Pilot Road, North Palm Beach, Florida 33408, relays some helpful information on iffstallations he's made on his Seawind II SABRATHA, Hull #29.
Transducer Installation -- I installed my Datamarine Speed/Distance transducer on the starboard side between the bottom drawer and the engine (on the Westerbeke it is below the alternator). And this arrangement has worked our perfectly. The instrument is accurate under power or sail, easy to get to, and what's more, if you pull it out for an inspection or to install the passive plug, the mile-high gush of water runs straight into the bilge.
Stern Ladder -- I used the Stainless Rails Ltd. unit provided by the factory and installed it myself. I think it's an essential addition for many reasons. It makes a stable platform for getting in and out of the dinghy, expecially if there is a bit of a chop on a cold night. But it's also helpful when cleaning the dirt from the stern after motoring for any extended periods. I thought there would be a problem with the mizzen sheet clearing the ladder, but the problem never materialized. I did, however, add a large snap shackle to the bottom of the mizzen sheet block to allow me to hook the boom out of the way when we are at anchor. Any ideas on where to fit a steering vane with this installation?
If you are interested, I fitted my boat with the following: Castlock terminals on all shrouds, Fammet furling jib system, Datamarine instruments, President 26 channel VHF with a Layton antenna, Barient self tailing winches with Barlow locking handles, Galley Maid propane stove with safety features on the tank, and First Mate self steering system. I would be happy to pass on any information on these products if anyone is interested.
MORE INSTALLATION NOTES
June McVey, P.O. Box 82, Curlock, California 95380 shared information about an installation on her and husband John's Seawind II MITARA, Hull #35.
We found that the installation of the paddle wheel for the Signet log and knotmeter installed on the forward edge of the shower pan worked out very well. When cleaning the paddle wheel, any excess water is trapped in the pan and can readily be pumped out. Recommendations were to install it under the port bunk as far forward as possible in the main cabin. The only alteration required in our installation was raising the grid over the shower pan 3/4".
The Mcvey's plan to retire in the fall and do some extensive cruising. Best wishes to them both.'
A SAD NOTE
Jill Phillips, P.O. Box 4583, Toledo, Ohio 43620 tells a moving story about her and her husband's Seawind Ketch, Hull #46.
Dear Seawind Owners: My husband Bob and I are very new members of the Seawind Ownors Association and were so happy when we found your association. We were eager and anxious to share experiences both in sailing, maintenance, and design questions and answers with fellow owners. Our Seawind II was 3 years old. Hull #46. We really love the Seawind ketch.
Well, last April 13th, 2 a.m., we were returning from a 4 day trip when we called my parents in Toledo to see if everything was ok. They informed me that there had been a fire at the marina where we dry dock our boat and that our boat had been totally destroyed. Well, I guess hope springs eternal because we both had to see for ourselves. We drove out to the marina at midnight and they wouldn't allow anyone in because investigators around the fire area wanted to keep it clear. So the next day we drove out again (about 30 miles) and as we rounded the corner of the totally demolished building, and there she was along with 75 other boats -- destroyed. The sailboats had been placed in a row of approximately 20, stern first to a metal building to protect them from heavy winds and storms. But as it would happen, the metal building was their fate since it must have been like a furnace during the fire. Our beautiful Seawind PINOCCHIO was totally burned to the ground. She had been burned from the stern all the way through the entire boat to the bow. Only the bob stay and half of the beautiful bowsprit remained. It was really a sad moment to see her leaning on the remains of her cradle. There she was. Hull #46. Burned to the ground. After seeing her and knowing her as such a strong and solid boat it was heartbreaking to see her lying there so helpless.
Well, that is the story of the end of Hull #46. We thought it might be interesting to the readers of the Seawind Owners Association newsletter. From time to time we'll bring you up to date on our quest for a settlement from the insurance company, and also on our search for,another boat to take PINOCCHIO's place.
Thank you for your patience in reading this letter as it isn't the normal type of letter one sends. Not exactly a happy letter, but hopefully, this will remind us all of how fragile and delicate our boats really are and that they can succumb very easily to many things. So enjoy, enjoy, enoy your boats and take care that what happened to us doesn't happen to you.
As a matter of interest we live aboard our boat each summer (3 years) and sail with our son Robbie, age 7, a dog Lulu, and a tabby cat named Mighty Mouse.
DECK SCUPPER MODIFICATION
Corky Van Deusen, 1 Main Street, Apt. 3, Youngstown, New York 14174 wrote describing a modification he'd made to his Seawind II ketch HALF MOON, Hull #77:
I have made one modification on my Seawind which I think will be helpful to other members. The deck scupper drains through long, sagging tubes to a common outlet in the stern. Each winter the tubes would freeze and bring new water leakage in the spring.
To remedy the problem, I created a shorter, quicker drainage system. I drilled through the hull one inch below and eight inches stern to the deck scuppers. I then used shorter tubes for faster draining.
So far I've had no complaints. There's been minimal streaking of the freeboard, but no more sagging, leaking tubes occupying my hanging lockers.
As a result of this modification, the bilge pump has its own outlet now.
I am in the process of installing a Ben Mar auto pilot and will let you know how that works out.
A few members have written to say they're interested in buying or selling Seawinds, sails or equipment. Here are the details:
1964 Seawind I Ketch, SUMMER WIND -- Lynn Williams purchased SUMMER WIND from Bob and Betty Bell last fall, but has the chance to buy a much larger boat that is better suited to his needs. That's why he's selling. He says SUMMER WIND is in immaculate condition and has just been completely rerigged. She's fully documented and located in Key West. Lynn 5 address is 123 Ann Street, P.O. Box'2, Key West, Florida 33040. The best time to reach him is Monday - Friday, 9 - noon at (305) 294-5077. There's a 24 hour answering service, so if he's out sy you re calling about the boat and he'll be happy to return your call.
Working Jib for SW II Ketch -- Frank Collins has a 90%, 232 sg. ft. jib and bag by Hood for sale, and he says it's in "like new" condition. The original cost was $600, but he will sell it for $400 even though it's been used only 4 or 5 times. It's located in the Annapolis area. Frank's address is 3616 Thornapple Street, Chevy Chase, Maryland 20015. His telephone number at work is (202) 477-4973; at home (301) 656-0826.
Seawind II - Prospective SOA member, Ronald Dunton is interested in buying a Seawind II. Anyone interested in selling should contact Ron at #1 Highgate Road, Santa Cruz, California 95066.
Seawind II, Cutter -- Horst Welebny is very interested in purchasing a second hand Seawind II Cutter. He also has an interesting proposition for anyone who would like to spend some time in the Mediterranean. He would like to help a Seawind owner sail across the Atlantic, give advice, prepare everything in Europe for his vacation, care for the winter lay up or marina berth, and look after the boat as long as the owner wished. He would also pay a good charter fee for the opportunity to take the Seawind for a trial vacation with his family. It's an idea that could bring some exciting sailing to a current Seawind owner, and give Horst the opportunity to get a "feel" for the boat before buying.
If anyone is interested in either selling, or vacationing abroad with their Seawind, please contact Horst at: Brunnenfeldstrasse 15, A-4020 Linz, Austria. His telephone number is 42 6 66, or 42 6 67.
CHANGE OF ADDRESS:
We were happy to hear that former newsletter editor, Milt Baker, is now settled in Florida with the opportunity to sail his Seawind SOLUTION}fs20 year round. His new address is: One Beach Drive, Apt. 1901 St. Petersburg, Florida 33701. His phone number at home is (813) 867-8454; at work (813) 830-3997.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: ARTICLES & INPUTS NEEDED FOR FUTURE NEWSLETTERS
We hope you enjoyed this issue of your newsletter. The next newsletter will be as good, or better, only if you take pen in hand and write something to your editor. If you're not the world's best writer, don't worry. We edit all material before it's printed anyway. Surely, you must have something to share with the other members of your association. We'd all love to hear from you about eguipment, modifications, sail inventory, maintenance, sailing experiences, recipes, and more. See your name in print. Write to me before the next issue.
-- Vern Iuppa
PLAN NOW TO ATTEND THE SEAWIND OWNERS ASSOCIATION ANNUAL MEETING
* DATE: Saturday, October 11, 1980
* TIME: 6 P.M.
* LOCATION: The beautiful home of a Seawind owner on the shores of Clements Creek (a navigable tributary of the Severn River) Annapolis, Maryland.
* FEATURING: -- TOM GILLMER, distinguished naval architect, who will speak on how he came to design the Seawind. Tom will also be available to answer your guestions.
-- BRAX FREEMAN, president of Allied Yachts by International Cruising Yachts, Inc., who will describe how his firm is building and selling the current line of Allied yachts.
-- A SLIDE SHOW featuring dramatic photographs of the exteriors and interiors of Allied boats, the boats under sail, and craftsmen at work in the Allied factory.
-- THE 1981 SEAWIND, shown personally by Brax Freeman, president of the company.
-- A SAILING RENDEZVOUS, for those who are able to attend with their boats.
-- YOUR FELLOW SEAWIND OWNERSlain who will share their experiences in sailing and enjoying their boats.
-- ANNAPOLIS ITSELF, a beautiful, salty city on the bay. A great place to visit!
-- PLUS . . . the sights, sounds, ideas, and excitement of the biggest and best in-the-water sailboat show of the season --the Annapolis Sailboat Show. This is the one best place to get enough modifications and equipment ideas to last you through the long cold winter and on into spring commissioning time.
DO IT NOW! Mark your calendar, plan to attend, and return the reservation form below no later than September 15, 1980. In return, you'll receive details on accommodations, docking or mooring (if you sail in), the show, and more. Mail the completed form to: Vern luppa, Editor Seawind Owners Association, 120 Elmore Road, Rochester, New York 14618. (If at the last minute you're able to come and haven't returned the coupon, call Lamar Neville in Annapolis at (301) 443-3665 (O), or (301) 849-8304 (H) for details.)
Yes! Count me in and save a place for me at the annual meeting of the Seawind Owners Assocation, Saturday, October 11, 1980 in Annapolis.
Name: Boat Name:
Address: Hull #:
City: State: Zip: Seawind I or II?:
Phone: (Home) (Bus.) I plan to arrive by:
No. Attending Seawind
Other (Please Specify)