the Seawind newsletter
SEAWIND OWNERS ASSOCIATION NEWSLETTER * * VOL. 1, NO. 3, DECEMBER 1979
One of the very nicest parts of being editor of the Seawind Owners Association newsletter is that almost every week's mail brings another letter from another Seawind owner. Sometimes it's a long one (like the excellent ones in this newsletter). Others, it's one with a simple question or a hint to pass on. Still others bring news of a cruise completed -- or just begun.
Whatever the communication, it's always a pleasure--and often a learning experience--to hear from another Seawind owner. We wish it were possible to pass on everything we receive from other Seawind owners in the mail. But, as we said in the last newsletter, the position description here calls for an editor. And we're beginning to get enough inputs that the editor's job in selecting what to run is not an easy one. Our guideline is to pick those inputs we believe will be of the greatest interest to the greatest number of other owners, keeping in mind that our space is limited.
One problem is that we seem to hear almost entirely from SW II owners. Maybe that's because the SOA is made up mostly of SW II owners (as the roster enclosed with this newsletter will show). And perhaps it's because Jules Siegel's fine newsletter has said about all there is to say about original Seawinds, while those of us with SW IIs still need to exchange a lot of information about our relatively new yachts. Even so, let it be said here again for the record that we welcome input from SW I owners. Sadly, this newsletter has only one -- a note from the Rubins.
If the Seawind Newsletter is to serve you, we do need your feedback. Please let us know what you want to see in the newsletter -- or better yet, send us something to include in the newsletter. After all, it is your newsletter. Without your feedback, there's a real danger that we will head off in the wrong direction. So let us have it.
We also need your input on what you want the association to do. Would you like to have a meeting in the spring, for example? A rendezvous or two in the surniner? If so, let us know. If there's enough interest, we will set something up. If not, we won't go to the trouble.
Something else we'd like to hear from you on is ideas for trophies. Dewey Marron of Atlantic Sailing Yachts in Annapolis has offered to buy us cups ("or whatever") for presentation. What d'you think about an annual trophy for the best cruising log submitted by a Seawind owner? Or have you other ideas?
Good sailing. And happy holidays
In the last newsletter, we asked for short reports on how well (or poorly) steering vanes and autopilots had worked aboard members’ Seawinds. Unfortunately, we didn't get a great deal of response. But here's a summary of what we got, including a bit from your editor.
FIRST MATE. David Dalziel, who sails SABRATHA, SW II 104, from his home in North Palm Beach, Florida, reports that his experience with the First Mate electronic autopilot has been somewhat less than satisfactory. He decided to use the First Mate because he'd used it (with a tiller) aboard a previous boat. He doesn't feel that the wheel adaptor is of marine quality -- with the sprocket sitting "an unsightly four inches ahead of the wheel center." David notes that this isn't the best installation for a Seawind TI, partly because of the rake of the steering wheel and, secondly, because of the torque the unit produces on the shaft -- a full 19 inches ahead of the closest shaft bearing. This seems to result in a great deal of flexing of the shaft, but not nearly enough turning of the wheel. Nevertheless, in spite of all this, David reports that the First Mate will steer a perfect course "but just seems to work too hard at doing it."
TILLER MASTER. Like David Dalziel, your editor had an electronic autopilot aboard a previous boat -- also one with tiller steering. This one was a Tiller Master, which today sells for about $425 (plus $65 for the wheel adaptor). To make a long story short, we have discovered that the Tiller Master does a superb job of steering our SW II SOLUTION in light air as long as the wind is ahead of the beam -- and when the boat is under power in reasonably calm weather. It is not, however, quick enough to steer the boat well in heavier seas or when the wind is aft of the beam. We've found that it makes a marvelous companion to SOLUTION's steering vane because it works extremely well in the very conditions the vane dislikes.
ARIES VANE. SOLUTION's principal offshore steering device is an Aries servo-pendulum vane, which retails for about $1,850 (including the clutch arrangement necessary for boats with wheel steering). Our considerable research finally convinced us that the Aries offered us the best tradeoff between responsiveness, ruggedness, reliability, and ease in mounting. Although we' ve used it offshore on only one trip (round trip from Annapolis to Newport last summer) , we’re completely satisfied with it. It steers the boat well under virtually all wind conditions from six knots through the highest winds we've had (about 45 knots), requires minimum attention, and essentially no maintenance. Its disadvantages? Heavy (about 75 pounds), requires lines leading into the cockpit (it works by turning the wheel and operating the main rudder), and the pendulum (oar) is somewhat difficult to get up and down. Nevertheless, if we had it to do over again, there's no question but that we'd buy an Aries again.
HYDROVANE. Gerry Smith noted in newsletter number one that "Peabody," his Hydrovane, works fine on all points of sail when apparent winds are 6 or 7 knots and above and reported that at one point enroute Bermuda GIGI sailed for 36 hours under self steering vane
in a 12 to 15-knot beam wind, moving the boat along at hull speed. The Hydrovane, of course, steers the boat using its own rudder, with the ship's rudder locked into position. Having sailed aboard GIGI briefly one morning a couple of years ago, I can confirm that the Hydrovane works well aboard her. Lynn Jeffries of SW II 19, VARIANT, reports that he's less than completely satisfied with his Hydrovane works. Lynn, would you care to provide a more complete report?
OTHERS. We'd also welcome your experience using self-steering devices aboard your SW I or II.
In the first two editions of the Seawind Newsletter, we concentrated on hull-deck joint leaks a number of owners have had. We've yet to receive a foolproof soluti-on to such leaks, but the following may be of interest.
LEST WE MISLEAD ANYONE, let it be said here and now for the record that there are a great many SW IIs which have been sailed hard and which do not have hull-deck leaks. Our SOLUTION, for example, has been sailed about 3,000 miles in the two seasons we've had her in everything from flat calms to gale force winds -- all without a hull-deck joint leak. We've heard from other SW II owners with similar experiences. In the interest of providing more information for those owners who do have such problems, however, we asked Tom Gillmer to share a line drawing of the SW II hull-deck joint, and we hope it'll give you a better understanding of the joint -- with, perhaps, some ideas. Thanks to Tom for the drawing. And you'll receive plenty of thanks if you can devise a permanent fix for the leaks some owners are experiencing. If you can, let us hear from you.
We also mentioned in the last Seawind newsletter that the Westerbeke seminars sponsored in Annapolis by Marine Engine Sales & Service in the fall were well worth attending. At least a couple of SW owners attended this year, and reports back from them indicate that this year's seminar lived up to their expectations.
Harvey Smith, who conducted the seminar at the Annapolis Hilton this year, provided about eight hours of instruction in the care and feeding of Westerbeke diesels at this year's seminar. Among the important points he made:
• Daily check of oil, water, transmission oil, hoses and clamps, and drip pan for leaks will detect 90 percent of the problems -- in advance.
• Regular oil changes will lead to long engine life. Change your oil every season and at least every 100 hours, more often if you use the engine mainly for short runs.
• Always run your engine up to full operating temperature (about 1800) when you operate it. Never start it, run it for just a few minutes, and turn it off before it reaches operating temperature.
• Change the sacrificial zinc anode in the water heat exchanger regularly -- every couple of months in warm, salty water.
• Westerbeke recommends use of a Raycor fuel filter. The Raycor, according to Harvey Smith, is superior to all other kinds of fuel filters. Westerbeke recommends that other filters (except for on-engine filters) be replaced with one Raycor.
• Knowing how to bleed your fuel system can save you a lot of misery. Have a diesel mechanic show you how to do it and then paint the bleed points white so you'll have a guide when it comes time to bleed the system.
• If your boat is hauled for the winter, you should disconnect the shaft from the transmission to reduce strain on the transmission seals. The shaft should be aligned again after -the boat has been back in the water for a few days (and after the masts have been stepped).
• The Hurth transmission can be freewheeled (leave it in neutral) or locked (by placing it in reverse). It shouldn't be left in forward while the boat is under sail and the engine is not running.
• At minimum, you should carry a kit of spares which includes new belts, two salt water pump impellers, a thermostat, zincs for the heat exchanger, spare hoses, and spare filter elements for both filters (on-engine and off-engine filters).
We recommend again that you attend a Westerbeke seminar. Contact the company for details on where and when they're held.
Can you answer any of these questions sent in by other Seawind owners? There are always lots of questions, but not always so many answers. So try to help out. After all, the next newsletter might be the one with your questions ... and they’re welcomed here.
CATALOG HOUSES. Vern Iuppa asks for catalog houses that have served you well. If we get enough input, next newsletter we'll run a summary of catalog sales outlets which provide good merchandise at fair prices. Let us have addresses and phone numbers if you have them.
TEAK TREATMENT. Vern also asks for recommendations on treating teak. How do you treat yours? Has it worked well? What do you use to clean it? Are you satisfied?
TENDERS FOR SEAWINDS. Do you carry a tender? If so, what kind? Where? Are you satisfied with it? What are the relative merits of soft tenders or dinghies vs. hard ones?
HEATERS. What type heater do you use aboard your Seawind? How does it work? Would you buy the same kind over again? Where is it mounted? Problems?
STERN LADDERS. What is the best permanent type ladder to use aboard a SW? Where can one be obtained? How much does it cost? How is it mounted?
KNOTMETER TRANSDUCER. Where do you have your knotmeter transducer installed? Is there a better location? Does it wet your lockers each time you remove it?
As noted above, we don't always get a lot of answers. But here’s one ... it came from Bob Walther (SW II 78, PATIENCE) in answer to a question from Richard Koumjian about where to mount a compass in the cockpit of a cutter rigged SW II.
Seawind II # 92 this is the sailing vessel PATIENCE, WHISKY YANKEE CHARLEY 5242 --- come in --- Richard, I have considered your problem of where to mount the compass, which is also my problem. Though PATIENCE is ketch rigged I don't like the compass on the mizzen because the mizzen mast shakes and vibrates considerably in a blow. The mast used to even twist slightly on the step before I stopped this with a small block of aluminum fitted tightly in the mast track and secured to the mast step with a small machine screw tapped into the mast step base. Eventually I will permanently solve the problem by putting the compass on a pedestal just aft of the mizzen mast. (Won't take any more cockpit room than it does now.) I think a blank pedestal may be purchased from Danforth without the wheel shaft hole. You might not like having this obstruction but a Seawind just wouldn't seem like a Seawind without something in the middle of the cockpit to bump into.
We've had a number of requests for a drawing of the boom crutch or gallows you mentioned. May we have a copy?
Seawind designer Tom Gillmer has kindly offered to answer questions for the newsletter which relate to the design of the boats or to design problems. Send questions to the newsletter editor, and -- space permitting -- they’ll be answered in the next newsletter.
QUESTION. The manufacturer seems to have shortchanged me on my water capacity -- my main tank, which was supposed to have had a capacity of 60 gallons, actually holds more like 45. I'd like to add tankage for another 50 gallons or so and am considering tanks under the port and starboard settees. If I don't want to rip up the main cabin sole, is this the best place?
GILLNER ANSWERS: The manufacturer's literature sometimes apparently exaggerates capabilities and capacities in order to sell boats faster. This is short sighted because in most cases it comes hack to haunt them. I don't know whether this was the case here but they must have considered other space. According to the original drawings, I have marked the fresh water tanks for 50 gallons maximum. The answer to your question about putting tanks under your port and starboard settees is basically no. Water is the second most significant weight on board after ballast -- not so much because it is heavy, although it i5, but because it is liquid and has a surface that effectively raises the center of gravity more than it would if it were a solid of the same weight. Your space under the seats is too high for additional heavy weight liquid or solid -- it will affect your sail carrying power. There is room for roughly 20 gallons of additional water under your cabin sole, on center just aft of the main bulkhead -- if this space is not being used as a holding tank.
QUESTION. I plan to add some inboard tracks for the working jib --either to the deck or the cabin top. I know that the tracks should be appropriately backed with a backing plate, but I'm concerned about squeezing down on the balsa core. What's the best approach: routing out the balsa core and replacing it with something like marine ply, using bushings or spacers to keep from crushing the core, or soine other approach? And should I place my inboard tracks on deck or on the cabin top?
GILLNER ANSWERS: Add the jib fairlead tracks P & S of cabin trunk close to sides of cabin trunk, at fore-aft location shown on the sail plan of the boat. (The manufacturer should provide you with the sail plan profile.) I would not worry about the deck core, but back up the through bolts. Use bushing spacers and a broad flat backing plate of 3/16-inch hard Plexiglass or similar. The jib sheet tracks, remember, are only for fair leads to the jibsheet and the lifting force is not too great. Therefore, don't turn up the bolts to the crushing point.
QUESTION. What are the theoretical hull speeds for the SW I and II?
GILLMER ANSWERS: The theoretical hull speed, which is computed for displacement hulls and based on the waterline length and the constant 1.34 in the equation: V = 1.34 (square root of L) results in a theoretical speed for the Seawind I of 6.56 knots and the Seawind II of 6.76 knots.
L. TALBOT ADAMSON
1616 Walnut Street, Suite 912
Philadelphia, Pa. 19103
19 Sept. 1979
Mr. Milt Baker
3351 Breckenridge Court
Annandale, VA 22003
Those few Seawind owners who sail downeast in Main experienced a lousy summer with much fog, rain, and little wind. In desperation, one day I followed a larger boat with radar on a proposed six mile trip under power int dense fog with zero visibility, Unfortunately for me, after experiencing a nasty roll in a narrow channel crossing, my Westerbeke suddenly made some strange racing noises and stopped for good. I had to be taken under tow by the boat I was following to the nearest anchorage and thence under tow by the Coast Guard to a distant harbor where there was a mechanic. After determining that it was not water in the fuel but an air lock in the system, he showed me how to bleed this W-30 using four different size wrenches: namely, 5/16, 1/2, 5/8 and 11/16. All Westerbeke W-30 owners should have these four open end wrenches. The engine started but ran only minutes. This was repeated a number of times to no avail. The next day we changed the Fram fuel filter. The cannister casement must be filled with diesel fuel (1 qt.) , since the hand pump on the engine will not prime it. This filter was changed in the belief that the cartrigge might be too dirty to allow proper fuel passage and thus create a vacuum. But this was not the answer; the engine ran only a short time.
After checking for all possible leaks on all fittings on the engine, which took a considerable amount of time, we determined that the problem must rest in the fuel tank. Fortunately, the small copper tubing that sticks in the fuel tank on the suction side is separate from the long piece of tubing that runs to the bulkhead filters. This facilitates its removal from within the tank. We found this small section of tubing completely blocked with gook. After blowing it out with compressed air, reinstalling it, and bleeding the engine, the engine started and ran very well. Obviously, I picked up some dirty fuel, and the rolling action in the channel had caused the gook to be sucked into the suction tube. The engine fuel pump then created its own vacuum, because it did not get enough fuel.
Hopefully, this will save fellow boat owners a lot of time should they experience engine failure through no fault of their own. My next job is to get rid of the gook in the fuel tank, which I hope can be done with a small pump and a hose introduced through the filler inlet and run over the bottom of the tank.
For many owners who doubt the riggedness of the Seawind II, I can assure you that it is a very rugged boat. I had the misfortune of running it up on a cluster of underwater rocks while sailing on the port tack in 5 stiff blow with the rail almost under. Needless to say, this was a moment of truth. I managed to get the boat off the rocks using my Westerbeke in full reverse, plus a combination of sea and wind direction on my genoa. The boat took some pounding, but was only there for five minutes. I looked immediately for hull damage, expecting water to be pouring in -- but, much to my surprise, I found nothing except a slightly moist two foot section under the starboard settee. Subsequent hauling of the vessel in a Travelift found a few chunks knocked out of the front of the keel, which apparently took the blow rather than the hull itself. I am convinced that if I had the usual "Clorox bottle" racing boat on today's market, I would have sunk.
With respect to possible improvements with the deck design, should a new deck mold be made to solve the deck joint problem, I have suggested to Robbie Pierce at CFG/Allied that the two present gunwale slots be relocated or a third one be added six feet forward of the present forward one. The present slots are a big improvement over the scuppers of the original deck mold, but the low point of the deck is actually six feet forward of the present forward scupper and collects an inch of water after a heavy rain. This water then works on the chainpiate in that location, resulting in a leak.
Commenting on your previous letters, I found the reprints of letters to you from Gerry Smith, Lamar Neville and George Curran most helpful. For instance, I have installed a shelf over the forward part of my V-berth to hold my cockpit cushions, and thus get them out of the way. I, too, would be interested in seeing Gerry's drawing of his boom crutch. Currently, when under power, I tie my main boom over the starboard side with a line running through the base of the stanchion rail and thence to the winch cleat. This prevents it from swinging back and forth and gets it out of the way.
Keep up the good work.
L. Talbot Adamson
A couple of comments on points in Talbot's letter. First, it's rarely necessary to bleed the entire fuel system. Usually, you'll only have to bleed one part of the system -- normally, the foward part. To do this, simply back off on the one 5/16 inch bolt on the engine mounted fuel filter about one half turn. Then pump slowly on the lift pump until you see solid fuel leaving the opened bolt. Then tighten down on the bolt. If the engine still won't run, you'll then have to go to the 5/8 inch bolt on the injection pump (see Westerbeke service bulletin #76 dated August 27, 1975). Follow the same procedure with this bolt. If this still doesn't solve the problem, you'll have to go to the injectors. The Technical Manual (Section D.1O) will provide details. Second, you may be able to avoid "gook" in your fuel system by adding a good additive. One of the best for keeping algae out of the fuel system, according to Westerbeke, is BIOBOR.
2209 Laurel Street
Palatka, Florida 32077
October 17, 1979
Dear Seawind Owners:
Whenever someone walking down the dock stops and admires my Seawind and mentions what a beautiful boat she is, I always reply politely that they have excellent taste in sailing vessels and I'll pass the compliment on to Tom. After all, I didn't design or build the boat, so why should I take credit by answering with a "Thank You"? After this, the dock walker thinks some person named Tom owns the boat, dismisses me as the scrub boy, and directs those pokes about the lucky people who own nice boats at the absentee and defenseless Tom. So, Mr. Gillmer, on behalf of those dock walkers (and me) she is a beauty.'
PATIENCE is sailed by my wife Lynette, daughter Kim and me on the St. Johns River in N.E. Florida during the fall, winter and spring. The Summers have been spent cruising in the Bahamas.
I've enjoyed reading about how other owners have set up their boats, so assuming that others are interested in this type information, I will give a rundown on how PATIENCE is outfitted. Our philosophy toward cruising is one of self sufficiency and simplicity. We try to stick with equipment that I can repair with readily avail-able spares and tools. The exception is that we do have basic electronics available consisting of VHF radio, depth sounder and radio direction finder. I can't repair these but I consider them essential for safety.
Ground tackle consists of a 35 lb. CQR plow on 25' of 3/8" chain and 30' of 5/8" nylon and a Danforth high tensile 20 lb. on 25' of 5/16" chain and 300' of 5/8" nylon... .The bowsprit has a double roller with the plow to starboard and Danforth to port. The plow comes up neatly on the roller and its shaft is held off the bowsprit by a snap from the pulpit rail to the anchor chain. The rode for the plow goes through a deck pipe to the anchor locker. The Danforth's chain passes over the port roller but the anchor itself is catted along the port side of the bowsprit. Catting the Danforth alongside the sprit calls for a couple of simple fittings that I had made of aluminum by a local welder. If anyone is interested, I will make drawings to show how. The Danforth's rode passes through a cowl vent to the anchor locker.
The anchor locker is divided in half fore and aft by a triangular shaped piece of sailcloth, hemmed and with grommets in each corner. The grommets are used to tie the divider to the top and bottom of the locker bulkhead and foward in the peak of the bow. Strap eyes were used as attachment points on the bulkhead and one of the bowsprit bolts was used up front. This keeps the lines and chains separate but is easily removable for cleaning or repairs in the rode locker. ...
One item I will soon add is another anchor and rode at the stern. The rode will pass through a chain pipe and into a container mounted to one side of the steering quadrant. The anchor will be mounted so it can be quickly released from the helmsman's seat.
Sails and canvas work all caine from a small shop in Stewart, Florida, by the name of C & G Sails. The inventory includes a 6.5 oz main, mizzen and working jib; 5 oz. 140% genoa; 7.25 oz storm jib; 7.5 0z. storm trysail; dodger and bimini top. All sails are made of Bainbridge Carolon (sp?) material and triple stitched. The main and inizzen are made without battens and cut slightly concave on the roach. A little sail area is lost here but I like not having the battens.
In retrospect, I would not buy a working jib but probably a 120%. I'm finding that when the wind picks up and sail reduction is needed, she maintains speed, drive and windward ability by reefing the main rather than changing down to the working jib from the 140%. When it gets too windy for the reefed main and 140%, then instead of going all the way down to the working jib I would rather have a 120% and double reef the main if necessary. A reefable 120% might be the answer, but I just haven't much use for that working jib.
For downwind sailing, I go wing and wing with the jib out on a Forespar 12' to 20' adjustable whisker pole, which I chose for its larger diameter and strength rather than for greater length. Although I suppose it would make a pretty good jury rigged mast in an emergency or even be handy as a sweep oar for emergency steering. It fits perfectly on deck by sliding it out until the end fitting can be fastened onto lifeline stanchion bases. A turks head at each end keeps it off the deck. It does need a topping lift because of the weight of about 25 pounds.
I use rope halyards of Marlow prestretched twisted dacron. I wanted a spare jib halyard, so the truck has three sheaves. This gave me a problem in use because the sheave housing walls were so close together that the jib halyard chafed on the walls at the forward side of the truck. I think I have solved this by filing the front edges of the housing walls round and smooth and by keeping the halyard tight so it can't sag to one side. The real problem seemed to be that the slots for the sheaves were wide enough to accommodate wire halyards but not the extra size of the rope hal-yards. I think they put in the rope sheaves as requested but left the slots too narrow for clearance that the rope needed. The Marlow prestretched line is too stiff and hard to handle and it will eventually be replaced with braided dacron.
The Bimini Top is necessary in this climate. Mine fits nicely behind the mizzen mast, forward of the mizzen sheet, and between the shrouds. The mizzen mast is one foot longer (I hope T.G. is not reading this) than design specification, thus raising the boom one foot and giving six feet to stand up in under the Bimini top. The Blitbini stays up all summer and sailing with it is never a problem. The only awkward part is furling the mizzen -- but it's worth the shade.
The dodger has been appreciated more at anchor than while underway. ItTreat to have the hatch slide open on a rainy day and it makes a nice place to put things like shoes you want to leave outside but keep dry. I don't like it, though, when sailing or motoring in areas where I need to see details of what's ahead. This dodger has three plastic windows in the front, and the middle one unzips for better vision. This is useless. By unzipping and rolling this window up I get a splendid view of the mast, raised hatches, bowsprit, and anchors. Much better to have the two outside windows open and let the middle be stationary -- or better yet have two large opening front windows with only a small stationary strip of material in the middle.
The screens are the one extra I could not live without. Down here every opening must be screened, even the cowl vents. For the hatches and companionway I made teak framed screens. The cornpanionway set is in three pieces the exact size and shape of the slide boards so that any combination of slide boards, screens and Plexiglass window may be used. Danforth makes rubber framed circular screens to fit any cowl vents. When not in use the companionway slide screens are stored flat against the bulkhead in the hanging locker in a simplified mock up of the companionway itself. The hatch screens are in frames sized to fit inside the oen ing ust below the hatch. These are held up by four teak togges fasened to the teak hatch trim on the cabin ceiling.
I like woodworking projects of any kind but especially those involving the boat. These are some of the things I have built and they lend a personal touch to PATIENCE.
The layout on PATIENCE resulted in a large useless space against the hull under the chart table. If anything was put in place, it just slid out because of the hull shape. A hinged and latched gate made like a teak grate now closes this space off. It made a good place for life jackets because they are visible, readily available and well ventilated.
A teak paper towel rack fits under the companionway ladder step by the sink.
One of those beautiful copper anchor lights looks guite nice in a holder fastened to the aft support leg of the drop leaf table. It's also easy to get to it when it's time to put it out for the night.
My most ambitious project was a large bookshelf on the starboard bulkhead of the main cabin.
Like another owner, I also made a pots and pans holder by enclosing all that space behind the stove and below the galley cabinets. A piece of Plexiglas cut to fit behind the tracks that the stove cover goes in did the job. The top of the Plexiglas is trimmed in teak for support and looks.
Large wooden hooks fastened across the top of the removable bulkheads in the cockpit lockers make good storage places for sheets, spare line, boom vang tackle, and anything else that can hang.
In order to be really useable, the head--especially the shower part--needed work. First, a shower curtain was made of 1.9 oz. coated ripstop nylon available from camping stores. It is made in the form is a tube so it completely surrounds you. To get in and out it has a zipper, the plastic sleeping bag type, that runs from the top of the tube to the bottom. The tube hangs from four hooks near the ceiling of the head and reaches to the shower grate with a couple of inches to spare. When not in use, it's hooked only by the two hooks against the aft bulkhead and rolled up tightly. It works better than any system I have seen except for those boats that have a complete fiberglass shower stall. Add a soap dosh and towel racks and it's all set.
Heavy objects that are not securely fastened can gain momentum and break loose completely, causing serious damage, especially on long ocean passages. On my boat, the hot water heater could be rocked back and forth as it was attached by only three small sheet metal screws to the plywood shelf. So it can't possibly come loose it now has a strap made of I" x 1/4" aluminum that passes over the top of the heater and fastens with strong screws to the shelf. A board is fitted between the top of the heater and the strap to prevent metal-to-metal wear to the heater. The batteries also need better securing as they are held by only a plastic strap with small screws.
My electronics came from a small mail order dealer by the name of Skipper Marine Electronics (180 N. LaSalle St., Chicago, Ill. 60601). They publish a booklet containing reliability and performance ratings on all the brands of VHF radios they sell. The radio I purchased was an ICOM 25 and performed just as Skipper's ratings stated. They also offer extended warranties on the brands they consider highly reliable. Based on my limited experience with them, they seem like a good outfit.
(Editor's note: We also ordered a radio, toether with a knotmeter and depth sounder from Skipper. They provided quick service, good prices, and trouble-free gear. They pride themselves on same-day shipment and on bench-testing each piece of equipment the day they ship it. Like Bob, based on our limited experience they seem to us like an excellent firm to do business with.MSB.)
The transducer for the depth sounder is mounted in a plastic dome that is epoxied to the hull. The dome is filled with mineral oil. This eliminates another hole in the hull.
PATIENCE may have a hull-deck joint leak but I can't be certain yet. Once it seemed that there was such a leak but it was actually a leak at the port in the head and water followed a course that eventually ran out at the foot or the starboard lower bunk. Re-caulking the port stopped this one but now a year later there is another. If it is the hull-deck joint, it would certainly be worth a try to mask and caulk it from the outside first before a more serious job of removing the rail.
The 24-gallon Kracor plastic tank in the bow is used for water and it's a darn good thing it was never used for what it was intended. Any one who puts (expletive deleted) in their boat in a ICracor is asking for trouble. This is the third such tank now in PATIENCE. The first leaks from the two large fittings, the second broke in shipping, and third and present one has one small crack that dribbles when the tank is full. This one will soon be replaced with a stainless tank. Having this tank hooked to a foot pump in the galley is very handy.
What else do I need/want? Some type of self steering would be necessary if long passages are to be made. Newsletter reports from owners with experience here would be helpful in making a decision. A full awning for shade over most of the deck is being considered. The latest item, since the boat is now on a mooring, is some type of wind or solar battery charger. Again, I could use some advise from the experienced.
For now, that seems to be all the news that's fit to print.
Have a happy holiday.
As the tag end of this edition of the Seawind Newsletter, SCUTTLEBUTT/BITS ‘N’ PIECES aims to take everthing that just didn’t fit elsewhere.
PROPOSED MODIFICATIONS. George C. Greene III wrote to CFG in August pro-posing a number of modifications which would have made his SW II 96 a bit more to his liking. They relate to the location of the stove fuel tank, moving the icebox drain, a cutoff for the galley sink, a cleat for the mizzen topping lift (his boat didn't have one) , lock-in winch handles (eight-inch variety to save knuckles), and making pressure water an option or putting in more tankage. He's very pleased with the boat, but also advised CFG of a number of problems -- including some discolloration of the nonskid, leaks, and other minor problems.
COMMUNICATIONS WITH ROBBIE PIERCE. We received a note from Robbie Pierce just after the the September newsletter went to press. In it, Robbie said Allied/CFG is very much in business with a healthy backup of orders, with the 1980 Seawinds looking great. He reported that the factory is now building at the rate of six boats a month. Robbie also said he purchased AMERICAN PIE, SW II 97, as a test and evaluation boat. She's cutter rigged, with two more feet on the mast, a shorter B measurement, and slightly larger J measurement. Robbie's also taken four inches off the spreaders. We wonder what Tom Gillmer thinks of these changes.
MORE COMMUNICATIONS. We asked Robbie in early November for another input for this newsletter -- including any comment he'd care to make on the article noted below. So far, no letter back. Hello, Robbie
ALLIED/CFG RECEIVES LOAN. According to the July 24, 1979 Rochester Area Chamber of Commerce News, "Action by the New York Job Development Authority and the Western New York Savings Bank of Buffalo, concluded a long-nego. tiated plan that will enable CFG Yacht Co., Inc. of Catskill to continue production of Allied cruising sailboats, thereby saving an estimated pay-roll of $600,000 for some 55 skilled craftsmen in Greene County....'
UNGROUNDING SEAWINDS. Bob Walther, whose long letter appears elsewhere in this newsletter, also wrote a short note in August pointing out one way to try ungrounding your Seawind if you run around. The Principle results from the SW's keel having a straight run that is much deeper at the aft end. It involves moving weight to the bow -- lots of weight. Simply inflate your Avon (or Zodiac or whatever) on the bow, support the dinghy's bottom if it's not flat on the deck, and fill it with sea water. With water weighing seven pounds a gallon, Bob says it doesn't take long to put 500 to 1,000 pounds on the deck and have the aft end of the keel lift off the bottom. Once you've freed the boat and moved to deeper water, let a little air out of the dinghy, push the side tube down, and the water will run right out. Bob says, incidentally, this method worked well for him the first time. The second time he had to row out an anchor and put the water-filled dinghy on the foredeck --so he recommends getting an anchor out first.
OIL LEAKS. Bob Walther's SW has a Westerbeke 30 which has always leaked oil -- about 3 tablespoons from the rear seal in 12 hours runninq. Has anyone else had a similar problem? (Editor's note: the folks at Westerbeke say overfilling the engine with oil can lead to leaks at the rear seal. We've never overfilled our crankcase and have never had such a problem aboard SOLUION. Bob, have you tried filling just to the lowest mark on the dipstick?'MSB)
RUNNING BACKSTAYS FOR MIZZEN STAYSAIL. In the last newsletter, George Curran wrote that he had devised a way to install mizzen staysail running backstays and would provide a copy of his instructions to anyone who asked. We now have a copy of his instructions for the association and can attest to their quality. They're complete with a list of all the supplies needed, and George has broken everything down into a series of steps which will require only one trip up the mizzen mast. This set of instructions is for SW II, but, with minor modifications, could almost certainly be adapted to SW I.
MOORING AT BADDECK, NOVA SCOTIA. Steve Rubin reports that his SN 1 38 is being redocumented from PEACOCK II to AVIRON and will have a mooring at Baddeck, Nova Scotia. Visiting Seawinds are invited to use it when it's vacant or raft on to AVIRON when Steve and Gail are there. Contact the Rubins for details.
LIVEABOARDS. Joseph Walsh wrote to say that he and wife Dorothy are living aboard RESOLUTE and moving to Florida to continue living aboard. We know of a couple of other liveaboards. All of which prompts us to ask how many members we have living aboard their Seawinds.
FUEL TAXES. Although our miserly diesels don't use a great deal of fuel, there is a lot of tax money paid on marine fuel -- and right not not one cent of it is earmarked for improving the waterways or other facilities we use. There is a bill before the Congress which would remedy that. It's known as H.R. 4310, and it would require that fuel taxes paid on fuel for boats go toward state and federal programs to help boaters. If this sounds like a good idea to you, you might want to write to Rep. John M. Murphy, Chairman, Committee on Merchant Marine and Fisheries, U.S. House of Representatives, Washington, D.C. 20515, who is a sponsor of the bill, and let him know of your support. Congressman Murphy represents New York.
TORTOLA BOUND. Ed and Donna Lemon of ASA BERT, SW II 15, stopped at our marina enroute from the northland to Tortola. We had a nice chat at dockside and marveled at the amount of gear they were carrying -- even a solar hot water heater for the home they're building on Tortola. How was your trip, Ed and Donna?
FINANCIAL MATTERS. Without boring you with all the details, suffice it to say that we're reasonably healthy -- with what appears to be enough money in the kitty for this newsletter and the first one of 1980. Next newsletter will probably ask for another ten bucks as 1980 dues. Counting printing, stamps, envelopes, and miscellaneous expenses, each newsletter costs the association about $90 to $130, with the latter figure more typical as we add members and publish longer newsletters.
DUES. Incidentally, there are still a couple of members who've already been reminded that they haven't gotten around to coughing up the dues for '79. Dunning letters aren't our style. But your ten bucks will help to keep the association solvent.
ROSTER. Let us know if we've left you off the roster or if we have anything wrong in your listing. This'll probably be the last roster for some time, since the membership growth seems to have reached a plateau.